background removal

J.Hayes

Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2012
Messages
66
Location
Waterloo WI
Stuller carries some 3/32" shank ball burs by Brasseler that have carbide tips brazed on and run about $9 for a 5 pack. Smallest they make is 0.5 mm. I just use them for setting in gold but I've been very happy with them. Stuller P/N on the 0.5 is 2 - 1041 and the Brasseler P/N is H1.11.005 #1/4
 
Last edited:

jerrywh

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Messages
1,032
Location
Baker City , Oregon
Here is an idea that I found for the background removal in very small areas in a design where you cannot get a graver into. Make a small steel punch and punch it down. Works great.
 

Hillbilly007

Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2009
Messages
52
Location
Bristol, VA
The diamond burs that I have bought off the internet have their diamonds affixed by a plating process which will go south when grinding carbide....It is my understanding that diamond bur manufactures have to use a sinering process to make the burs somewhat indestructible.....I have looked high and low, to no avail, to find a supplier of sinered diamond bur grits that range from medium to very fine......
any help would be appreciated.....

Bob
Try this link: http://www.inlandcraft.com/department.asp?department_id=45&site=lapidary
 

Christian DeCamillis

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Joined
Nov 9, 2006
Messages
639
Location
Traverse City, Michigan
I have a question. Why does everyone think you need carbide burs for this. Yes I use them but I also use regular burs made for the jewelry trade. Bush makes them down to a 0.25mm the cost is much less than carbide. No they may not last as long but if you use a little lube and the correct speed they work great.

The big issue most people have with burs for removal is they are using them at too fast a speed. It may seem like going super fast is an advantage but it's not. It's like everything else speed and feed. I once spoke to the engineers at Brassler they told me that those small carbide are not really intended for ultra high speed the geometry of the cutting teeth are not designed for it. Using a speed of around 12 to 15 thousand will give a better result and make the burs last 5 times longer.

When you are using burs you need to find the proper speed and use the proper pressure to get the best cutting performance. Using a micromotor or flex shaft with good torque will help as well. If when you are cutting with the bur and it starts to bog down during the cut you will dull it more quickly.

One more thing comes to mind there are like all tools cheap burs and quality ones expect to pay more for the quality they will last longer and perform better. At about 3 to 4 dollars each for small carbide it gets expensive quickly. One flat or pointed graver will last a long time.

Jerry made a good point about hammering . You don't have to make the background perfectly flat if you get it close and then hammer it you can make it as perfect as needed. Remember the hammering won't compress the metal it will just move the high spots into the lower ones. Always remember than metal will move to the path of least resistance when hammered or rolled etc...

I hope some of this info is helpful. Give it a try and let us know your results.



Chris
 

JJ Roberts

:::Pledge Member:::
::::Pledge Member::::
Joined
Nov 10, 2006
Messages
3,457
Location
Manassas, VA
I use John Barraclough designed graver's made from 1/16'' cobalt drills to get into tight areas for background removable,also you can be made from 5/64'' cobalt drills. J.J.
 

mtlctr

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
378
Location
NW Ohio
I have a question. Why does everyone think you need carbide burs for this. Yes I use them but I also use regular burs made for the jewelry trade. Bush makes them down to a 0.25mm the cost is much less than carbide. No they may not last as long but if you use a little lube and the correct speed they work great.

The big issue most people have with burs for removal is they are using them at too fast a speed. It may seem like going super fast is an advantage but it's not. It's like everything else speed and feed. I once spoke to the engineers at Brassler they told me that those small carbide are not really intended for ultra high speed the geometry of the cutting teeth are not designed for it. Using a speed of around 12 to 15 thousand will give a better result and make the burs last 5 times longer.

When you are using burs you need to find the proper speed and use the proper pressure to get the best cutting performance. Using a micromotor or flex shaft with good torque will help as well. If when you are cutting with the bur and it starts to bog down during the cut you will dull it more quickly.

One more thing comes to mind there are like all tools cheap burs and quality ones expect to pay more for the quality they will last longer and perform better. At about 3 to 4 dollars each for small carbide it gets expensive quickly. One flat or pointed graver will last a long time.

Jerry made a good point about hammering . You don't have to make the background perfectly flat if you get it close and then hammer it you can make it as perfect as needed. Remember the hammering won't compress the metal it will just move the high spots into the lower ones. Always remember than metal will move to the path of least resistance when hammered or rolled etc...

I hope some of this info is helpful. Give it a try and let us know your results.



Chris

yep, always comes down to speed & feed and lube of course.:hammer:
 

Chujybear

~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
Messages
1,079
Location
Haida Gwaii
The diamond burs that I have bought off the internet have their diamonds affixed by a plating process which will go south when grinding carbide....It is my understanding that diamond bur manufactures have to use a sinering process to make the burs somewhat indestructible.....I have looked high and low, to no avail, to find a supplier of sinered diamond bur grits that range from medium to very fine......
any help would be appreciated.....



Bob

It's something mountain. The company that I used to buy sintered diamond burrs from. Very good quality. Haven't had to replace tgem in about ten years (tho I don't use them much either)
But some crap ones off ebay. Inconsistent grit. I'm
 
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