Titanium Ring with Rubies

davidshe

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Sep 24, 2012
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More stone setting! Here are a few pics of my latest project. Titanium deep relief Celtic design with 6 flush set rubies. A bit tougher than silver for sure but I am slowly getting the hang of it.

IMG_4017.jpg IMG_4013.jpg IMG_4009.jpg
 

Dani Girl

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NSW, Australia.
That might be my favorite ring ever. Well done.

It would look tacky on this one but some people like anodizing for a bit of colour on ti, it's really easy, you could do it then sand off the top surface leaving colour only in the cuts and background.

Awesome work, thank you very much for sharing
 

davidshe

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Thanks Monk and Danae!

Danae, I seriously considered putting a light color gold to rust (10 -17volts) annodized finish in the background but my two best consultants, my wife and my friend Chris Malouf who has graciously given me helpful tips on engraving rings as I have been learning this art, both thought this one looked better with no color. Glad you agree! You have such great taste in design.
 

Gemsetterchris

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Have you pressed them from the back with a wooden dowel? If they stay in with abit of pressure then great, if not then the method is just eye candy & not set..which I's common with flush setting.
There must be sufficient metal over the stone, burnishing alone isn't always enough depending on the item.

Pendants & earrings may get away with it but....
Quite often just pushing in a stone & burnishing looks great but doesn't get metal over the edge enough *(though it can be fine in some cases)*.
How are you going about things like undercutting?

The reason for enquiring is that I've noticed a lot of beginners tackling flush setting as It's one of the simplest, however..it can & often be highly problematic & advanced to get right, even if the result looks great it doesn't necessarily constitute "set" as often there is no actual metal over the crown facets which is the tricky bit.
 
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davidshe

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Chris - You make a "very" important point. I press them hard from behind with wood to test each setting. As you say, flush setting looks easy but it is not. When I first started, stones popping out was a real problem and caused me to give up for awhile. Then after studying the Blaine Lewis videos I learned to do it correctly. Blaine shows three ways to flush set but he prefers one best using a setting burr to create a distinct shelf rather than a hart burr to undercut. That is the way I am doing it now. The key for me is that the diameter and depth have to be almost perfect. The burnishing graver also has to be formed perfectly and carefully inspected and touched up before each setting. I practiced with dozens of CZ's until I felt confident. I would set them in brass and copper practice rings, poke them from behind wood and brass dowels and then bounce the rings all over my concrete floor to see if they held up!

I know there are many ways to do this and I would be interested to know your procedure for flush setting.
 

Gemsetterchris

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Well I reckon you should skip the concrete test from now on.:D

The key to setting is knowing a few different methods for everything & then using one or a combo to get the result.
After a while you can sense when a slight change of tactics is going to be needed..all depends on the stone & material you have at the time.
Some people learn one method & think that's it, which is ok if your doing the planning...if like me you have to deal with all sorts of random jobs, it helps to be abit imaginative to test out & experience as many possibilities as you can as they all come in handy at some point.
 
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Gemsetterchris

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I`ll give you a clue...I just found one packet of seating burrs I must have bought 10 years ago & it`s not been opened as yet!
Maybe I`ll give it a go when I get the right size stones.
 

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