Help, please: old school power hone: wobbling

mcengraving · Feb 21, 2015

Got this old school power hone but it's got a minor wobble to it. Making it hard to correctly sharpen gravers. I've taken the covers off and tightened the allen screws... it doesn't have any external belts. Anyone have any suggestions?

monk · Feb 21, 2015

not sure about yours--it's probably the same as the one i had-- could be as simple as one of the rubber feet on the bottom working loose. possible too, the post that's screwed into the round base may be loose. the round base may have crud on the bottom. judging by the condition of the power unit, this should be cleaned and smooth. the dark gray item on top of the aluminum disk-- is that a sharpening stone ? if yes-- that may have grooves or ridges that would wreak havoc on your sharpening attempts. no sharpening surface should ever be anything but flat & free of gouges. good luck.

JOEYS CARVED ART · Feb 21, 2015

Is it wobbling such as a vibration coming from the motor or does the grinding disc have "high spots" to where the shaft might be bent or something. Can you take the motor apart and replace the bearings/bushings in it. If you can get them [bearing/bushing] out they should have a number on it so you can match it up for a replacement. Grainger or Allied would have replacement bearing/bushing for a good price. Maybe try a new, good quality grinding wheel. I really don't know, I am just throwing out some ideas. It is a pretty simple machine that don't have a lot of moving parts, it should be fairly easy to track down the problem.

Brian Marshall · Feb 21, 2015

It's not exactly the type of machiune for that particular grinding wheel...

It uses a flat lap. Look on Ebay under lapidary - diamond laps.

Brian

GTJC460 · Feb 21, 2015

I've got one of those. It was my grandfather's hone. When I first started engraving I used it but quickly decided to retire it. You will save a boatload of time by switching to diamond and a modern power hone.

Ron Spokovich · Feb 22, 2015

Looking at the set up, first I say take off that topmost slab of a wheel. Then, remove the aluminum disk. With your fingers, and NOT under power, try to slightly push the shaft to see if it moves. Possibly, then if so, a bushing problem, or, shaft wear. If you can get one, a surface gauge with dial indicator mounted, check the runout of the flange the aluminum disk rests upon NOT under power. A slight runout of even .0005" will show up at the end of the disk, resulting in the problem you state. All your disks must be clean, burr free, and exactly parallel. A piece of dust/dirt will make a difference. The steps have to be taken to find the culprit. Could be a couple of reasons, or something simple. A little time will show you where the problem is. I think you can find it with a little investigation, amd maybe have a decent machine again with a minor amount of time and a little tinkering.

FANCYGUN · Feb 22, 2015

Hey I have one of those and it's still running strong. If all else fails why not just send it to GRS and let then service it? Easier than spending a ton of time you could be engraving trying to figure it out. Especially if you cant figure it out. Over the years i have had to replace two on-off switches on the unit. Does yours have a serial number. darned if i can find one on mine.

mcengraving · Feb 23, 2015

I haven't looked for a serial number I'm probably just going to end up sending it to grs. Appreciate the help guys.

Chujybear · Feb 23, 2015

its a plastic spindol inside.. i had one that cracked.. pulled it apart, and replaced.. there is a fine balance in the guts.. i had a bit of a time getting it callibrated again.. i would send it in to grs.

mcengraving · Feb 25, 2015

Grs won't fix it said it's too old. How did you get the wheel off? I've taken the allen screws out tried to gently pry it... can't get it up.

mcengraving · Mar 1, 2015

Apparently this is an origional power hone made before grs was an actual company. Marian at grs figured it out for me! Guess I have me a collectors item hahaha

Ron Spokovich · Mar 1, 2015

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't remember you saying about the plastic spindle that the disk is on. Sometime, they can be problematic and I don't remember about the allen screws. As far as 'prying' it off, that may be your only recourse, as I have a suspicion that plastic can lose it's 'set' after considerable time. Looks like you may have to make a new, steel spindle, which is what I'd do. Prying is something many guys who repair watches/clocks face, and it's easy to break a 'staff'. But, your spindle is heavier. However, you may unduly stress something in the motor. My opinion is to, if you have working room, saw the spindle off, dismantle the whole thing as you'll GENTLY have to disassemble the motor and push the remainder of the spindle out, take dimensions carefully, and find someone competent to make a new spindle, reassemble carefully with proper lubricant, and you may wind up with a good machine with lots of mileage left. Good luck!

mcengraving · Mar 3, 2015

The aluminum plate that holds the stone is mounted to a steel shaft that goes directly into the motor with two allen head screws underneath the deck. It appears as if there's some kind of key holding it in place because after removing the screws it still won't come of I'm going to try to knock the key out and get it off. Worst case I'll have to saw it. Thanks guys

JOEYS CARVED ART · Mar 3, 2015

If you have removed the allen screws that holds the stone/plate on you should be able to get it off. Keep in mind that this is old and it is hard to tell how long that has been on there. If the aluminum plate has been on the steel shaft for a long time it could make an electrolytic bond, the way like steel plugs do in aluminum housings such as transmissions on a car. If this happens it could be very tough to get off. Like I said before I don't really know I am just throwing ideas around.

Help, please: old school power hone: wobbling

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