Ink jet printer success, let it dry?

dlilazteca · Feb 11, 2015

Ok guys and gals, i successfully printed onto the soft side of the transparency, now how long should i let it dry? still seems to smear after about 15 min, if it completely dries what is the self life? Should it completely dry?

Ok Ive been testing things out, with the heat gun dried out completely and transferred like a charm now the question is what would the shelf shelf life be?

Thanks

Saludos,
Carlos

monk · Feb 12, 2015

carlos: i've experimented quite a bit on timing the dry time, as well as the shelf life. my old hp prints work best from 15 to about 30 minutes. it helps to look at the glare spot on the ink-- if shiney, it usually smears. if dull, it's good to go. by measurement, i don't see much much at all after 2 weeks. after about 2 days, it slowly evolves to won't work. i think the variations i get may be a temperature/humidity thing- not sure. i use hp # 92 black on the transparent acetate. for me shelf life doesn't matter, as i always print just when i'm about to use them. this 92 ink transfers onto just about anything-- glass, metal,varnished wood.

grumpyphil · Feb 12, 2015

monk said:
carlos: i've experimented quite a bit on timing the dry time, as well as the shelf life. my old hp prints work best from 15 to about 30 minutes. it helps to look at the glare spot on the ink-- if shiney, it usually smears. if dull, it's good to go. by measurement, i don't see much much at all after 2 weeks. after about 2 days, it slowly evolves to won't work. i think the variations i get may be a temperature/humidity thing- not sure. i use hp # 92 black on the transparent acetate. for me shelf life doesn't matter, as i always print just when i'm about to use them. this 92 ink transfers onto just about anything-- glass, metal,varnished wood.

Monk-
You just go straight to acetate with this 92 ink? Do you use transfer magic or any other magic potion?

jerrywh · Feb 12, 2015

I have transferred patterns from 2 year old transparencies and they came out just as good as the fresh ones.
I print on the correct side.

dlilazteca · Feb 12, 2015

jerrywh said:
I have transferred patterns from 2 year old transparencies and they came out just as good as the fresh ones.
I print on the correct side.

what side is the correct side? just making sure?

Saludos,
Carlos

Brian Marshall · Feb 12, 2015

The side that's NOT slick and shiny... the "matt" side...

B.

dlilazteca · Feb 12, 2015

Brian Marshall said:
The side that's NOT slick and shiny... the "matt" side...

B.

Brian, i printed on the shiny side, on my first go, thanks I'll print on the matt side next time.

Saludos,
Carlos

firephil · Feb 12, 2015

Which transparency film is best to use?

jerrywh · Feb 12, 2015

There is a side with a chemical on it. That is the side for printing. The shiny side doesn't work well because the ink smears and doesn't dry right. I have found that I need to keep the transparency film sealed all the time because the coating on it will dry out and then it doesn't seem to work right. Also some of the ink refills won't work for me either. I use a HP inkjet and original HP ink. I also have a Epson 88 and it works well also. The brand of transparency film makes a difference also for me.

sanch · Feb 13, 2015

shiney side, rough side, damar and naphtha, alcohol and shellac, alcohol, shellac and shellac based primer, and damar and naphtha plus white out (naphtha based) THE BEST RESULTS I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO PRODUCE IS 75% TRANSFER this has been my biggest expense as of yet this has been a FRUSTRATION but im not gonna quit..........

dlilazteca · Feb 14, 2015

sanch said:
shiney side, rough side, damar and naphtha, alcohol and shellac, alcohol, shellac and shellac based primer, and damar and naphtha plus white out (naphtha based) THE BEST RESULTS I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO PRODUCE IS 75% TRANSFER this has been my biggest expense as of yet this has been a FRUSTRATION but im not gonna quit..........

Just read the old threads, theres does and donts, theve all worked for me

Saludos,
Carlos

sanch · Feb 14, 2015

Yup I have tried it just seems i'm ****ing in the wind I could have freaking hand drawn the dang patterns by now and saved myself the ulcer I have missed a step or the moon isn't in the correct quarter the entrails aren't correct. ....done for now once I regain composure I will get back to trying.

dlilazteca · Feb 14, 2015

sanch said:
Yup I have tried it just seems i'm ****ing in the wind I could have freaking hand drawn the dang patterns by now and saved myself the ulcer I have missed a step or the moon isn't in the correct quarter the entrails aren't correct. ....done for now once I regain composure I will get back to trying.

hahaha sorry, but I can understand your frustration, get up shake it off and try again, that's why many people quit

Saludos,
Carlos

Brian Marshall · Feb 14, 2015

Didja try throwing the bones yet?

Do what Carlos does - make a video of what yer doin' and post it up here.

Someone will notice the step you are missing or maybe it's a bad choice of materials?

Then you can go see the astrologer to pick the best day & time to try it...

Brian

monk · Feb 14, 2015

Grumpy: it just depends on the item. if real shiney, i use "cirelli sauce"-- invented by mike cirelli. if the white coating is not needed, it will adhere to most any smooth, non porous surface. i use some kind of clear acetate for laser printers. if i want to draw direct, i always use mikes' solution. it holds pencil well, not prone to flaking or smudging. i sent a bottle of the "sauce" to ken hurst maybe 2-3 years ago. he said the "sauce" didn't work for him. i don't recall what printer he used.

monk · Feb 14, 2015

sanch: when doing this, it's a great help to be by yourself. talk to yourself. if you get into an argument with yourself, you've lost the battle. this crap can be frustrating. i think the main problem is the chemistry of the individual inks, dyes, & pigments... most find favor with the laser toner technique. i still use my junky old hp. hay,-- it works ! don't give up, the reward when you succeed is worth the aggravation.
somewhere in the forum dungeon, is a post by mike cirelli showing his formula.. i'd gladly tell you, but have forgotten what it was.

grumpyphil · Feb 14, 2015

monk said:
sanch: when doing this, it's a great help to be by yourself. talk to yourself. if you get into an argument with yourself, you've lost the battle. this crap can be frustrating. i think the main problem is the chemistry of the individual inks, dyes, & pigments... most find favor with the laser toner technique. i still use my junky old hp. hay,-- it works ! don't give up, the reward when you succeed is worth the aggravation.
somewhere in the forum dungeon, is a post by mike cirelli showing his formula.. i'd gladly tell you, but have forgotten what it was.

This one?
http://www.engraverscafe.com/showth...ion-for-inkjets-by-Cirelli&highlight=transfer

atexascowboy2011 · Feb 14, 2015

Thanks Grumpy !

Dave London · Feb 14, 2015

Dang it Grumpy
I was enjoying this thread, allways fun to which the reinventing of the wheel.:beatup:

dlilazteca · Feb 14, 2015

For inkjet, laser I use straight damar nothing else

Saludos,
Carlos

Ink jet printer success, let it dry?

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