I use a spring loaded tool on a pantograph or freehand with a polished carbide scriber to transfer the design. In step one I remove a substantial amount of the material you see darkened out with chisels and flex shaft , stone the background, then start modeling. I keep transferring the design for each layer, modeling along the way, using chisels, flex shaft, gravers, punches, micro gravers and sculpting tools and stones for smoothing. I make most of my tools including some of my own burs that are suited for sidewalls. I used a manual pantograph with a carbide cutter to cut a healthy amount of the design on the outside. I completed about 85% of it this way. If it is out in the open, the draft and width of the tool are not hindered, but in tight spots and near higher layers the draft of the tool would be a problem. Since the tool is round and about .010 wide, I then have to use hand tools for corners , small areas and areas near upper layers. There is one visual showing how corners in the outer design must be done by hand. The design areas further in are done by hand, a lot of punch work and stoning involved. The nice thing about a spring loaded tool is that after the transfer, you can follow the same lines with a graver. It is important to polish this tool so it rides metal more easily. I also used the pantograph for my name and year.
Response to Martin. The Morgan carving
