Question: Is it worth it?

jb1983

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Hello,

This ring I just finished up. I cut out all the prongs for the beads. It was vary time consuming to do it this way. I like to bead set like this but is it worth it? I don't think most people can see the differences. I can see the difference and people in the trade probably can. That is the main reason I do it. Most stores around me do CAD and use beads in the CAD they still have a nice look and WAY faster for setting. Dose one outlast the other? I don't know. I was thinking of making two rings both the same and showing my customers the two one with CAD beads the other all cut out of the ring by hand/power. Both at two different price points.

Would love to get feedback and your thoughts.

The ring is 4.40 mm wide with [.01] 28 per side 14kw gold.

Thanks
 

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Brian Marshall

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Extremely nice work.

As to whether it's worth making a comparision pair of rings, only you can decide whether you have the calibre of client who cares for and is willing to pay the difference.

It is nice to have such a dream... nicer if you can make it a reality!


Brian
 

Gemsetterchris

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Well It's more satisfying to do it yourself :)
I get castings where the beads were cut in wax (or whatever material but not CAD), problem is I end up having to re-cut to satisfy myself & It's probably easier & neater to do from scratch unless the mould/casting is as good as it could be ( often not quite after multiple productions).

Sometimes I'll do a mixture of old school bead raising & cutting...yes it depends if the customer is aware of the difference & what they expect.
Some want/expect the best but have no idea of the time requirement/cost....others it seems details are wasted on :rolleyes:

So..personally I'd take the long route for one-off custom/small runs & for mass production find a balance.
 

jb1983

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Thanks Brian & Chris for feedback. I will make two rings just to show my clients. I will keep doing it the way I have unless my clients want to save some$$ see how it works out. I think it dose say something doing it a harder way not the easiest way.

Thanks
 

Jan Hendrik

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Good job! I can see you have been setting for quite some time. If you want to improve on your work to make it even better, I suggest you do more clean up with a narrow onglette graver. You need to remove the burrs around your beads by flicking then off with the narrow onglette graver. You can the burnish the beads again with the beading tool to remove any small marks left by the graver. Ideally you want to see only the stones, perfectly round beads and bright cut sidewalls with millgrained ridges. No other metal should be visible. Do this and your work will move from pretty dam good to world class!
 

Gemsetterchris

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Jan, that takes the original question to yet another level :D

I've got a similar dilemma at the moment with 390 x 1mm diamonds going in a stainless steel watch bracelet..on a budget & for yesterday...looks like abit of "old school" setting & skipping a few timesink processes is in order.

I'll just add that the processes that do still need doing should be done as nicely as possible..no excuses for shoddy work at any level.
 
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jb1983

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:) I guess I should have stated this is before final polishing. I still had to set the main diamond and one last row of diamonds on the other side. That being said I know I have room for improvement but in the hand this is clean setting. I was fortunate to take a class with Todd Daniels last year who is truly world class. I know not to compare my work to his but I am happy were I am at for stone setting.

Thanks for your feedback
 
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diandwill

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The determination, at least for me, to Cad or not to Cad, is made at the counter, discussing the project with my client. I can go over various details and costs, and if their primary concern is saving a few dollars, I suggest Cad. I don't have one, but can get good waxes milled at an affordable price, and I have no time in the carving up to that point. That saves them some money.
The next question is how much you charge to hand bead and bright stones? Would you charge less if the ring was carved via Cad? That is also information you can discuss at the counter.
Your setting is extremely good (I wish mine were that good), but if you sense the customer would rather save money than pay for your skills, then you discuss the option of cad...or you just incorporate Cad into all your designs, don't relate that decision to the client, and save a little money on your time. Only you can truly make THAT decision.
 

jb1983

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This is a finished pic of the ring. My photo skills are lacking. The pic with the black background was done with a cloud dome with my cell phone. The other pic is just a progress shot.

The ring is 4.40 mm wide 28 stones per side [.60] ct The main diamond is [1.50]

Thanks for the feedback
 

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jb1983

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Thank you

Its a Jura ring holder. I rolled out a copper penny to help the ring not move when doing heavy cuts. It also helps when doing a bunch of setting. Sometimes the plastic can melt from the ring heating up. This helps stop that. I saw others use copper before to help with slipping when working on rings its a good trick.
 

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Southern Custom

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I've found the answer varies depending on the skill of the CAD man. My partner is a brilliant CAD guy and his waxes leave very little cleanup to do and once set, are so close to trad. set stones that it just doesn't pay anymore for me to do all that work by hand. BUT, I haven't found very many guys that can generate that kind of grown wax. The resolution of the printed wax also plays a significant part in the equation as well.
Layne
 

Gemsetterchris

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Just did a few production jobs today, the bulk of the cutting having been done on a model then cast..just leaves abit of bright cutting to clean things up.
Quite abit quicker & more than adequate result.
 

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