push graver handle . angles ?

Indy Joneds · Jan 27, 2015

hi , my push graver cuts and when im using it around the work in such a way that the handle is overshot if you like and clear of the brass plate and has room to lower, there is no problem . but when the handle is on top of the brass it scraping along the brass plate and some times forces the point down . the handle is in the way , basically. i have carved it down but im wondering if the gravers are some times put in the handles at a slight angle to compensate for this ? or are all the push graver handles surpose to be super thin ? or maybe longer ? i have the handle cradled in the palm of my hand but not with knuckles underneath , on the sides and my index finger on top of the point if you like. it feels right . total length of tools is 120mm ( graver 55 , handle 65 ) the handle sticks below the graver about 10mm or the radius from the centre of the graver to the edge of the bottom of the handle is 10mm if that explains it better. hope you can explain better it all a bit better for me, cheers.

monk · Jan 27, 2015

when using such a graver, it's handy-- even required-- to grind heel angles on the graver bottom.this allows the graver to cut and provide clearance for your hand. check graver heels and sharpening in the tip section. so many angles for so many different uses, check it out. i use (at times) gravers without heels. one really must strain to continue a firm grasp on the tool, and yet continue a cut to completion. better to use heels.

DanM · Jan 27, 2015

Grind off the 10mm of wood on the handle.Google "engraver handles" and view images,you will see a number of examples.

Brian Marshall · Jan 27, 2015

Do both, put a flat on the bottom of the handle and try several different heel facet angles 'till you find one that suits you...

B.

Indy Joneds · Jan 28, 2015

i carved and sanded off the bottom of the handle and it has helped but it still just needs that little bit more so i can control coming out of a cut and thining it out to a point . will making the angle of my parallel heel help , making the angle steeper im guessing , or making the width of the heels bigger help, its at about a quater of a mill atm id guess ? i just dont want to muck up my first graver that cuts. thanks all .

monk · Jan 28, 2015

i forgot to mention, if you don't want a heel, heat the back of the graver and bend it a few degrees. this can provide a bit of clearance. i prefer to alter the graver, and be more consistent with the handles. shown is the first holder i made years ago. it still works when needed. the brass holders-- i have 4 different lengths. for a given graver length, one of the 4 is sure to be just right. the 2 gravers, heated and bent as i mentioned. the holder with the ball handle was an old control knob removed from a machine. no, the cap screw does not get in the way. if you make a few basic handles- different lengths, you'll find one will put the graver point just where you want it. when a graver becomes too short. trying to sharpen with a handle on it can be awkward. and , last but not least, i can store all of my gravers in a relatively small space. if i had a handle on each one, i'm not sure how i'd store them.

Indy Joneds · Jan 29, 2015

very helpfull , thanks . i will give bending a go for this first one jst so i can gewt practicing . bennding high speed steel ok ?

atexascowboy2011 · Jan 29, 2015

Not if you heat it to bend it.
You do not want the cutting edge to get so hot that it turns colors.
Wrap a wet rag around the graver to say 2/3rds of the way back. Then heat just the thin portion that goes into your handle.

Indy Joneds · Jan 29, 2015

my graver does not thin at the end it is just a square bar . but i will try the heat and wet ragg technique . i have a small heel but i think a little bend will give me just the right amount . do any of you have graver handles that you can get your knuckles under or is it always grip at the sides ?

atexascowboy2011 · Jan 29, 2015

You can grind the tang, the part that goes in the handle.

monk · Jan 29, 2015

no hard & fast rules here. some day,, you'll find the combination that's just right for you. the entire concept is to be comfortable while engraving.you will just have to do a bit of fiddling to get to you to that point. i've been told that hss can be worked at red heat without losing temper. i always err on the safe side and make sure at least the front inch or more is kept way below high heat. the wet rag is a good idea, if discoloration should show at the cutting end, you'll know you have changed the temper.

push graver handle . angles ?

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