need help will pay for lessons in de/md/pa area

mcengraving · Jan 25, 2015

Hello everyone, I stumbled across a collection of equipment from an engraver that used to engrave for the franklin mint. Currently I have a couple foredom rotary tools and I purchased a graversmith setup and a 901 handpiece. I have boxes full of gravers but most seem to be used for handpush engraving. I've been trying and trying but I can't seem to get anywhere. I can't get the machine to tune right, and at best my lines are weak and shallow. I'm mostly engraving aluminum for motorcycle parts and electronic cigarette boxes. I need help. I don't know which gravers to use to get the deep cuts that I need and It just seems that either the machine isn't strong enough or I'm using all the wrong gravers. Basically at this point I'm digging through boxes of used gravers trying to find one that cuts a decent line and stick with it. I'm willing to pay for help if there are any engravers in the tri state area. I'm just frustrated and ready to give up. Are there any engravers locally that could give me a hand?

atexascowboy2011 · Jan 25, 2015

SILENCE........

Everyone is being quiet hoping you'll throw in the towel and sell your stuff CHEAP !
All kidding aside, holler at Monk.

mcengraving · Jan 25, 2015

At this point I'll give some of it away for help. I've got boxes full of gravers, several foredom handpieces and motors, a few gravermeister handpieces... none if it's very useful if I don't know how to use it.

J.Hayes · Jan 25, 2015

http://www.igraver.com/ lots of good stuff here, sharpening instructions as well.http://www.igraver.com/sharpening.shtml
what gravermiester handpieces do you have?

dlilazteca · Jan 25, 2015

atexascowboy2011 said:
SILENCE........

Everyone is being quiet hoping you'll throw in the towel and sell your stuff CHEAP !
All kidding aside, holler at Monk.

hahah Cowboy your one funny guy. ..

first you need to know how to properly sharpen a graver igraver is a great start, Cowboy was kind enough to help me when I was starting, he sent me some samples that i used to study the geometry and then I return them when I was done, I guess this is the time when I return the favor send me a private message with your address I'll send you some sample properly sharpend engravers so you can get the idea, and I do recommend Sam Alfano's sharpening DVD.

Saludos,
Carlos

sanch · Jan 25, 2015

at least you are on a shorter learning curve! hammer and chisel here!

mcengraving · Jan 25, 2015

I believe they are the qc710 and 720 for the gravermeister.

mcengraving · Jan 25, 2015

Basically I guess what I really need to know is what graver I need to produce wide deep cuts that I can use with the quick change holders that the magnum handpiece uses. I thought I had the 901 it's the magnum. I apologize.

dlilazteca · Jan 26, 2015

You should use whatever graver angle you have, and first learn how to cut strait lines and scroll backbones, as you get the hang of it, you will see just how wide the diffrent graver angles will cut.

i think your trying to go to fast, have you cut anything? Have you sharpened anything? Even if you buy a presharpened graver it won't last forever you will have to reshape it to get the edge back.

Saludos,
Carlos

mcengraving · Jan 26, 2015

These are the two electronic cigarette boxes I've done so far. Both aluminum.

mcengraving · Jan 26, 2015

I haven't tried to sharpen anything yet. I have a power hone but I only have one wheel for it. I have a couple miscellaneous stones and diamond stones still in the packaging. That's why I was hoping to find someone I could pay for some instruction on what all of this stuff is that I acquired.

mcengraving · Jan 26, 2015

As you can see my cuts are a mess.

Chujybear · Jan 26, 2015

Fr what I can see your cuts are plenty deep. Greater depth than that would probably just mean multiple passes with either push or pneumatic graver. I think if greater depth in a single pass is your hearts true desire, I think that that would be best achieved with hammer and chisel. I think you are on the right track looking for a teacher tho, because before you start worrying about getting deeper, you should probably focus on tool control. And, as has been mentioned before, graver sharpening. No sense in even putting tool to metal, if not properly sharpened.

This is getting a little ahead of ourselves, but you might possibly want to look at wider geometries. They will give an illusion of deeper cuts without necessarily being so. Conversely if you truly want to just literally go deep, a thinner geometry may be preferred because you can go deeper without widening your line too much.

mcengraving · Jan 26, 2015

Yes I'm hoping to find a teacher in my area. It seems that all of my gravers are also angled to accompany a right handed engraver and I'm a lefty. The original owner spent a lifetime acquiring all of this equipment and did some amazing work. I'd love to learn how to put it to some good use. Thanks everyone for your help I really appreciate it.

Sam · Jan 26, 2015

Forget about making deep cuts and all of that. Get some 2" practice plates, learn to sharpen your gravers to perfection, and practice on small designs until you develop muscle memory and graver control and can do nice, clean engraving. After you do that, try working on a larger scale items with deeper cuts. You're jumping the gun working on large pieces and trying to cut deeply. You need to learn to crawl before you can walk. Large articles can be really tricky and are not good for a beginner to learn on. Now's not the time to focus on motorcycle engraving, gun engraving, jewelry engraving, etc. You need to learn basic engraving first. After you do, you'll be ready to move into specialized areas.

You should also devote as much time as possible learning to draw scrolls properly. The art side is far more important than the engraving side.

Marcus Hunt · Jan 26, 2015

You seriously need to learn how to sharpen FIRST, NUMBER 1 PRIORITY!. Sam has an invaluable video available as well as the free one on You Tube if you want to sharpen by hand. Forget engraving at all if you can't sharpen your tools. Sorry, but that second example of your work looks like it's been done with a blunt, rusty nail! You'll never achieve anything decent in the engraving world with blunt or dull tools, FACT. Buying someone's old gravers is very hit and miss. In your first example you have done a half reasonable job for a newbie but I'm guessing you were lucky and picked a sharp graver whereas your second example looks like you weren't so lucky. Your secondhand gravers will be fine if you learn to sharpen them.

I know this might sound harsh, and to a certain extent it's meant to be. Engraving IS NOT just picking up a tool and hacking at the metal. Lines need to flow and look neat and join to make a pleasant, aesthetic design. The number of actual cuts to be learned is very small, but they need to be practiced over and over until they become second nature. There is a huge journey to be undertaken when learning to engrave, enjoy it but don't short cut any of the steps or you'll be lacking. Sharpening is not difficult with one of the fixtures available but it is essential.

mcengraving · Jan 26, 2015

I completely understand that's why I'm looking for someone I can pay for instructions.

monk · Jan 26, 2015

as per my phone chat, check out the dvd's available. sharpening would be the first to get. sams' is the one to get. as you have grs tools. the dual angle sharpening device allows one to do any geometry that one would want. your work is less than stellar, but shows you have desire. that's critical. i'm guessing much of your problem is the fact that you're doing work on aluminum. ugh ! sounds unbelievable, but mild steel is easier, far easier- to cut than most aluminum alloys. aluminum requires the use of a lube. kerosene, mineral oil, even chicken fat would be better than nothing.
the depth you seek is overkill. a lightly cut design on such objects is all that's needed. by learning shading and texturing, the depth is achieved through mere illusion. on bike parts, a little bit deeper is ok. the parts are larger and are usually seen at a larger distance. even so, color, texture, and good cuts will give the appearance of depth where none actually exists.
please take some time to learn some of what is posted in the tips section. many of your questions will be answered there.

mcengraving · Jan 26, 2015

I appreciate all the help monk, I guess what I'm looking for is not deeper cuts but wider because most of my work will have to be chrome plated after I'm finished. Is that achievable in a single pass? What type of graver should I be using? I'm going to go home and try to sharpen some flat gravers. I have a vhs on sharpening but it looks like it's from 1980 and hard to follow. I have the standard grs sharpening fixture not the dual angle. I guess I'm going to have to practice sharpening the ends to get them to fit in the quick change adapters to start and go from there. Again... thank you all.

mcengraving · Jan 26, 2015

Just purchased sam alfanos expert guide to sharpening and scrollwork dvd. thanks for all the help everyone.

need help will pay for lessons in de/md/pa area

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