Easy image Transfer Method using a Laser Printer.

Ryan O'Shea

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Joined
Dec 6, 2014
Messages
10
I recently posted a video on youtube and did a short how to on image transferring that I use that is extremely effective. I thought I would post it here since this is the first forum I ever joined. And people were helpful to me.

I noticed there was a lot of people on the interweb looking for transferring techniques from a printer that actually worked. So I thought I would share it. [video]http://youtu.be/ldnuSB0WDyA[/video]

This method predates my work with a power assisted graver and this method works really well. I have never had it fail. And it sure beats using a pen to draw on my designs. Plus I get to keep copies and can resize them if needed.
Im hoping with this video, those who are trying to get a good image transfer method will now be able to.
Do note, that in this video I am making a test die from a design I drew up to practice while waiting for the actual bar stock. And since it would be a die for stamping, its not laid on in reverse.
The one draw back to this method is that you have to use plain paper. So lining it up can be a bit of a pain. So the way I do it is to cut the design out along the outer lines. Then place it. A little practice it actually becomes rather easy.
Again. This example I just posted. I did it in a bit of a rush. But it shows how I do it, and what I do it with.
There are probably better variations on a transfer method from printers out there. But I have yet to find one for myself that really did the job.

I will list the things needed here in order.

1. Laser Printer ( I use the Brother TN450)
2. Damar Varnish
3. Nail Polish.
4. High Proof Alcohol, or whatever you use to clean your practice plates with.

The overall cost of this set is less than 50$.
The laser printer being the most costly bit. I paid 40$ for mine. If you get your Damar Varnish at Michaels like I do, use the smart phone app to get a 50% off coupon. Nail polish - I always buy the cheap yellow stuff from the dollar store.

Q-tips I assume everyone has already. But if not. Any dollar store.

The alcohol is optional for cleaning the plates or surface. What ever you use will work just fine. Scotch tape seems to work really well also for grease and oil.

I am no professional. And I am actually new to power assisted engraving. I have always used hammer and chisel. But recently switched. I now wonder why i had not sooner. I absolutely love it. And the switch was simple. I was off n going the first day, and by day 3 was really getting the hang of it.

It has been a life changer for me. I was hit by a car on a freeway that was going 75mph a few years ago that left me with a bad back and nerve damage to my left arm, neck and back. So I a hard time keeping hands steady and problems with numbness which had made my weekend hobby just to hard to do. The GRS I bought totally helped fix that. Im still a bit shaky and have problems. But, I am engraving everyday now rather than every weekend.
My god how addicting this hobby has become since I made that switch.
 

Roger Bleile

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Ryan,

That's a good video and a great transfer. The only hitch for me is that I don'r want to run a gun under water. Is there another way to get the paper off?

Thanks,
Roger
 

Ryan O'Shea

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2014
Messages
10
I have tried this without water yes. For me, I like the hot water because it removes all of the paper.

The first way I did this was to slowly peel while keeping it just ever so lightly damp with nail polish remover. It did work.
I found, for me and what I do, hot water worked best and was much quicker in removal.

I am sure there is a way to remove the paper safely with out having to use water.

If you find a new trick to removing the paper without water. Let me know. Would love to hear about it.
 

mitch

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Messages
2,635
hi Ryan-
a suggestion & a question:

in your first post you wrote "Nail polish" when you meant "Nail polish remover"

and how durable is the image as it gets rubbed by the fingertips or disturbed by the graver while cutting the design? i've found a number of methods that make perfect impressions, but the toner either flakes/rubs off the varnish/transfer coating or the coating flakes off the metal.
 

SalihKara

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I use more simple and easier way it takes only 10 second

No water, no soap, no wash,

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1753624044862889&set=vb.1467423986816231&type=2&theater

1- Print your drawing by using a laser printer
2- Clean the surface by using nail polish remover
3- put some nail polish remover on a towel or piece of cloth
4- put the paper on the surface
5- press the towel or piece of cloth, which has nail polish remover on it, on the paper and hold it a few second
 
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LVVP

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Joined
Dec 13, 2006
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1,382
Location
Toronto
I do next steps:

1. Make of drawing with the laser printer (be sure it is mirror view)
2. Clean surface with acetone
3. Hold drawing in the right place and apply a Nail polish remover, lets it dry
4. Apply a Nail polish remover again and remove wet paper with caution - DONE

I have always very good result.
 

Dani Girl

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Messages
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Location
NSW, Australia.
Hope I am not hijacking the thread at all... my method is about 50/50 damaar varnish and terps... when tacky design is pressed into it with a burnished... design was printed on baking paper. I don't find this to be very flakey and it holds up well.

I am going to try that last one though. Maybe wetting it twice is the secret.
 

Lonestarr

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Richland Washington
This was posted some time ago and I found it works very well.........Use spray Photo set ( available from hobby stores ) then laser print your design on the backing paper from come clean labels....I have an old box of pin drive labels that I use the backing from also...
When you figure out where the printer is going to place your design on plain paper, just place the backing material on the plain paper over the design and run it through again and you have it......the Photo set will clean off with any solvent....
 

monk

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This was posted some time ago and I found it works very well.........Use spray Photo set ( available from hobby stores ) then laser print your design on the backing paper from come clean labels....I have an old box of pin drive labels that I use the backing from also...
When you figure out where the printer is going to place your design on plain paper, just place the backing material on the plain paper over the design and run it through again and you have it......the Photo set will clean off with any solvent....
interesting ! what is "photo set" ? is this the same as spray fixative ?
 

Roger B

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I do next steps:

1. Make of drawing with the laser printer (be sure it is mirror view)
2. Clean surface with acetone
3. Hold drawing in the right place and apply a Nail polish remover, lets it dry
4. Apply a Nail polish remover again and remove wet paper with caution - DONE

I have always very good result.

I thought acetone was nail polish remover

Roger
 

Lonestarr

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Messages
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Monk, you are right, I use a 3 M product which is sticky....You let it dry until it is barely sticky, works good give it a try

Bob
 

monk

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I thought acetone was nail polish remover

Roger

in days gone by, it was acetone and maybe a splash of perfume. now, with environmental concerns, i don't think it has acetone (at least not very much) in it. most any hardware outlet that sells paint, also sells acetone. a can will last half a lifetime.
 

monk

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I recently posted a video on youtube and did a short how to on image transferring that I use that is extremely effective. I thought I would post it here since this is the first forum I ever joined. And people were helpful to me.

I noticed there was a lot of people on the interweb looking for transferring techniques from a printer that actually worked. So I thought I would share it. [video]http://youtu.be/ldnuSB0WDyA[/video]

This method predates my work with a power assisted graver and this method works really well. I have never had it fail. And it sure beats using a pen to draw on my designs. Plus I get to keep copies and can resize them if needed.
Im hoping with this video, those who are trying to get a good image transfer method will now be able to.
Do note, that in this video I am making a test die from a design I drew up to practice while waiting for the actual bar stock. And since it would be a die for stamping, its not laid on in reverse.
The one draw back to this method is that you have to use plain paper. So lining it up can be a bit of a pain. So the way I do it is to cut the design out along the outer lines. Then place it. A little practice it actually becomes rather easy.
Again. This example I just posted. I did it in a bit of a rush. But it shows how I do it, and what I do it with.
There are probably better variations on a transfer method from printers out there. But I have yet to find one for myself that really did the job.

I will list the things needed here in order.

1. Laser Printer ( I use the Brother TN450)
2. Damar Varnish
3. Nail Polish.
4. High Proof Alcohol, or whatever you use to clean your practice plates with.

The overall cost of this set is less than 50$.
The laser printer being the most costly bit. I paid 40$ for mine. If you get your Damar Varnish at Michaels like I do, use the smart phone app to get a 50% off coupon. Nail polish - I always buy the cheap yellow stuff from the dollar store.

Q-tips I assume everyone has already. But if not. Any dollar store.

The alcohol is optional for cleaning the plates or surface. What ever you use will work just fine. Scotch tape seems to work really well also for grease and oil.

I am no professional. And I am actually new to power assisted engraving. I have always used hammer and chisel. But recently switched. I now wonder why i had not sooner. I absolutely love it. And the switch was simple. I was off n going the first day, and by day 3 was really getting the hang of it.

It has been a life changer for me. I was hit by a car on a freeway that was going 75mph a few years ago that left me with a bad back and nerve damage to my left arm, neck and back. So I a hard time keeping hands steady and problems with numbness which had made my weekend hobby just to hard to do. The GRS I bought totally helped fix that. Im still a bit shaky and have problems. But, I am engraving everyday now rather than every weekend.
My god how addicting this hobby has become since I made that switch.

when you lay down the paper onto the item, is the damar tacky or dry ? nice vid, by the way
 

Roger B

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Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
350
Location
Adelaide, South Australia
in days gone by, it was acetone and maybe a splash of perfume. now, with environmental concerns, i don't think it has acetone (at least not very much) in it. most any hardware outlet that sells paint, also sells acetone. a can will last half a lifetime.

This might be the case however it is still a solvent which cleans as does acetone. If you clean with acetone and again twice more with nail polish remover how does it become something on which you can lay down a transfer?

-- Don't worry about this post - I realised that the solvent soaks through the paper rather than the method I use where you make the surface tacky to dry and then transfer
 
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