Transfer Wax - Help in Preventing from smudging?

Bob A · Dec 29, 2014

Oh wise and learned ones -

I have a somewhat heavy thumb, and it's pretty much impossible for me to get through a project that I've transferred with wax without smudging it, often quite badly. I've tried several products (including my wife's hairspray) but I'm finding that anything with Acetone or Tulane tends to at least blob the wax even if just misted on (some products pretty much delete the wax).

What do you guys use? I saw that someone mentioned a product ... lex? les? in a thread, but I can't find it through search. Thanks,

Bob

rodsta · Dec 29, 2014

Once the design is transferred you could try to scribe the design before you get your thumbs into it......*smile
That would be more permanent.

Rod

Thunderone · Dec 29, 2014

I also go over it with graphite pencil over the wax, scribe as mentioned or you might try artist workable fixative Larry C

monk · Dec 29, 2014

at least a half ton of info on transfer techniques exist in the tips section. sam alfano also sells a nice dvd tutorial on how he does this. there are numerous ways to skin this cat.

Sam · Dec 29, 2014

Transfer wax is an oily wax. It's going to smudge and there's nothing that can prevent that except 1.) don't touch it after you've done your design (engrave without your fingers touching the surface), or 2.) scribe the design as already stated. I use method #1.

Bob A · Dec 29, 2014

monk said:
at least a half ton of info on transfer techniques exist in the tips section. sam alfano also sells a nice dvd tutorial on how he does this. there are numerous ways to skin this cat.

And a great DVD it is!

Bob A · Dec 29, 2014

rodsta said:
Once the design is transferred you could try to scribe the design before you get your thumbs into it......*smile
That would be more permanent.

Rod

Knew I could count on you guys helpin' out...

Mebbe I just tape my tumbs to my hands!

Bob A · Dec 29, 2014

sam said:
Transfer wax is an oily wax. It's going to smudge and there's nothing that can prevent that except 1.) don't touch it after you've done your design (engrave without your fingers touching the surface), or 2.) scribe the design as already stated. I use method #1.

Funny thing... as I was vigorously experimenting in the art store this last weekend, trying pretty much every fixative known to man, one of the very helpful folks in the store said ...."How about you just learn to keep your thumb out of it?" Looks as if I already had the "learning", just needed the verification. Thanks, Everyone!

Sam · Dec 29, 2014

Well, it's easy to say keep your thumb off the surface and it's another thing to actually do it. I'm ok with it because I'm used to doing it when I have to, but for everything else my thumb rests on the surface while I'm cutting. So if it's awkward don't think you're the only one that's uncomfortable with it. It'll come with time.

And I'd be lying if I said I never accidentally smudged some of my transfer wax design. It happens.

KCSteve · Dec 29, 2014

I've gotten very good at figuring out where a line was and drawing it back in.

dlilazteca · Dec 30, 2014

KCSteve said:
I've gotten very good at figuring out where a line was and drawing it back in.

I agree,...main cuts finger on top method, shading thumb on the side, there are exceptions of course.

Saludos,
Carlos

Marrinan · Dec 30, 2014

McKenzie said that is why he preferred hammer and chisel method, your hands don't touch until your done. I have learned over time to use my air graver the same way. Keep your hand above the work. You really don't need to get in close and personal until you have your main lines cut and then you don't need the transfer anyway. Fred

Brian Marshall · Dec 30, 2014

There are only two kinds of engravers. Those that slip once in a while - and those that lie a lot.

There are only two kinds of stone setters. Those that break a stone once in a while - and those that lie a lot.

And as Sam just pointed out: There are only two kinds of wax transfers.

Those that he, you, or I get perfect the first time - and those that get "smudged" a lot...

Brian

monk · Dec 30, 2014

i got the transfer thingy down flat ! i re-invented the process into 2 parts. the first is using mike dubbers' black wax for the initial lift. the wax as i made it is way too soft. i then apply this to clear tape generously smeared with sams' wax. this gives me a better initial lift, and goes on very well to sams' wax with a very light thumb "burnish". thence onto the piece. my initial blackening is with a small alcohol lamp filled with kerosene. the kerosene blackens immediately with almost no heat to the part. the black also transfers very well.

tdelewis · Dec 31, 2014

Try dabbing liquid cold gun bluing on the surface after you have made the transfer. You must take special care to make sure that the surface is clean and free of oils or wax before you make the transfer or it will not work.

Transfer Wax - Help in Preventing from smudging?

Bob A

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