Question: Review/feedback-Inexpensive Carbide Gravers

Texasgerd

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Update on a post Carlos (thanks brother :bow:) put up a while a go about a source for inexpensive carbide engravers from centennial carbide.

I purchased the “ultra micrograinâ€￾ 1/8â€￾ and normal “micrograinâ€￾ blanks and ground them to a 3/32â€￾ square for use in my Lindsay. Thus far, they work pretty well and I'm quietly impressed. It is definitely worth a try for under $2/graver. :cool:
I’ve not done any knife blades (hardened steel) but thus far they are worth the investment.

For those with a Lindsay, and wanting to know "how"..... I simply made a jig with a Jacobs chuck with some square stock bolted into the back to index the round stock consistently. I then ground away w/a 80 grit diamond wheel and progressively measured as I ground w/ a calipers. It was tedious but less than ~3-5 min / graver. They are now dead on and fit great. If you do this, don’t forget dust mitigation and control the heat when grinding.

Thus far, I've made square and 105 deg, and I'm going to try some flats tonight. :chip:

Want to ask if anyone else has tried and/or cut anything significant w/ these?

Dan
 

monk

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i bought a similar batch from centennial. have yet to even take them out of the box. could you please post a foto of your modified jacobs ? i think a few folks (me too) would like to see this.
 

dlilazteca

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Dan,

Glad you're liking the Centennial carbide blanks I love them and use them probably 99% of the time, on indexing for the lyndsy templates or handpiece I think you're doing too much work let me try to explain how I do it,

All you really have to do is create one flat surface on the side of the round blanks, that flat surface is what you would use to index your bowl, to your classic or your template, you don't need to index the whole side I only do about three fourths of the blank, paint your blank with a sharpie hold it flat against, your sanding disc or hone, make a flat surface your Sharpie will help you show where you have sanded enough. I hope this makes sense.

I know your used to seeing square gravers, one you make the small flat area, use that to index in your template, onece you start to shape it will look normal again regardles if it's round.

Good luck

Saludos,
Carlos
 

Texasgerd

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Carlos
I'd agree, but I just got started and the machinist/engineer in me just made me keep going.;) The Texan in me would have just use a bigger hammer and smacked her home. I can't thank you enough for IDing this source.

I'll do what I can to post some pictures. For "where" / "how" I simply purchased a standard Jacobs chuck from home improvement store (Home deposit) , a 1/2" fine thread bolt (thread for a standard Jacobs chuck) and used an standard J-bolt washer (square) that has a 1/2" hole in the center. I then ensured my lap / graver angle was negative angle whereby I was largely using the lip of the lap to provide a single point of contact w/ the graver I was grinding. I then drug the graver back to get somewhat even grind across the round. Key was constant mic'ing to find the high and low spots as I got close.

Just hope this helps some of the others that have posted info here. I can't thank Sam enough for this forum. :clapping:

Dan
 

dlilazteca

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Dan, send me your address brother, I have the lindsay micro something template, you know the one used to make your gravers smaller and square, I guess kind of what your doing, I don't use it, you can have it, just send me a pm.

Saludos

Carlos
 

Texasgerd

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sharpening jig

Here is the picture of the fixture made to turn the 1/8" round gravers into 3/32" squares.

The washer initially had a nominal hole dia of 1/2". I turned it on my lathe for 0.003" clearance from the bolt. After using it, I found that this step wasn't really necessary. You just need a standard fit like found between any bolt/washer. I was also going to true up the sides, but found out this wasn't really needed either. ;) I did find a longer bolt helps you keep a solid hand on the fixture.

I chuck the stock about 1/2" deep and leave this end round. This will be the side of the graver I'm going to put a tip on, thus it's not necessary to make it square.

Total cost of parts was ~$30 but you could do it cheaper if you shop around. Biggest single cost was the chuck itself.

Really hope this helps someone else.

Dan
 

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monk

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ah, that's much better. far easier to understand. thanks very much for showing your device. it's gong to be replicated by a few i would guess.
 

RDP

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Thanks Dan I like this idea, and I like to make my own tools as well, but for all of us that have a dual angle sharpening fixture would, it not be easy to square a round graver with it? :thinking:

Richard.
 

DKanger

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Why not just buy the material in 1/8" square to start with? It's readily available. Then you only have to grind 2 sides.
 

Texasgerd

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I also tried to tweak my duel angle for version 1 of this. It worked, (sort of). Big issue was keeping the blank parallel w/ the grinding wheel. You really couldn't do this as something was always slightly off. I always ended up with some type of taper, and not true flat sides. Having the negative angle allowed me to keep a consistent grind, hit high / low spots, etc .

Also, the square stock is C2 grade (6% cobalt and 1.2micron grains). Only the round stock is the micro or ultra micro grain.

Dan
 

Weldon47

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I've used the micro grain carbide with all my H&C work since shortly after Carlos posted the info. It's hard enough and tough enough to withstand what I put it through. It also lasts longer between sharpening.
As for what I've cut.... Look back at what I've posted. Some of it's pretty darn hard steel.
For the price this is hard to beat. Down side for some would be having to grind/shape your own points vs buying one already shaped like you want.
I've made them by hand & also with a Lindsay template.
Just my thoughts,
Weldon
 

monk

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weldon: i bought quite a bunch of these, but have yet to do anything with them. after reading you post, sharpening a few may become my first project in the new year. thanks for your input.
 

cropduster

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Hello Texasgerd,

I too am using the Centennial Carbide blanks in 3/32" diameter. So far, I used the material on a 116 degree universal; a rounded corner flat; a 50 degree detailer and a round point material remover originated by Barry Lee Hands.

Also, I am using the single flat invented by Carlos - all gravers are working surprisingly fine. The only thing I needed to get accustomed to was the length of a 3" long blank. To date, I have not broken a three incher but I'm feeling one may go when I try to cut something hard - just due to the OAL. But at the price, cutting off a little doesn't cause me a lot of concern.

Many thanks to Carlos for publishing his find. Up till then, I was using carbide blanks from Falcon Tool in Cleveland who offers them in C2; C6 and Micrograin. Their cost is a bit more than Centennial but not much - and some of the carbide suppliers I know have told me that Micrograin is considered much more impact resistant. I guess I'll find out.

I do not feel that I have cut anything significant yet, but I am hoping to and will definitely start in with the Centennial carbide.

Happy New Year to all and my sincere thanks to everyone for sharing their wisdom and expertise.

Cropduster
 

dlilazteca

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Thank You all for the wonderful comments and I'm glad I have been able to give back to the engraving community, I've been using the gravers for 98 percent of what I do the other 2% is just because I use gravers I already have shaped and don't have a need to make a new one.

Someone contacted me about shipping some oversees I just don't remember who, and I can't find the email, feel free to contact me, we can work something out, just forgive me for not replying sooner.

Happy New Year!

Saludos,
Carlos
 

RDP

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Someone contacted me about shipping some oversees I just don't remember who, and I can't find the email, feel free to contact me, we can work something out, just forgive me for not replying sooner.

Hi Carlos it was me, I wanted to get some from them but they do not ship overseas, I will PM you the details, thanks

Richard.
 

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