Question: removing mfg brand marks on a slide.

griff silver · Dec 16, 2014

I am wanting to do away with the colt logo etc on my defender. My question is: is it acceptable to sand it out or must it be welded, inlaid etc. I am comfortable welding it but where can I get it information on what alloy it is and heat treat info. Thanks in advance!

Brian Marshall · Dec 16, 2014

You'll be sanding a long long time...

Laser may not match when blued or plated - or even unfinished, if held in the light the right way.

Surface grinder is the way to go.

B.

DakotaDocMartin · Dec 16, 2014

Here's one by Otto Carter to give you some food for thought:

griff silver · Dec 16, 2014

i love that gun!!!! but howd he get colts lettering off of it?

DakotaDocMartin · Dec 16, 2014

griff silver said:
i love that gun!!!! but howd he get colts lettering off of it?

If you compare the photo with this one you can see how it was probably filed, or surface ground off. The lines milled into the rear of the slide look to be somewhat wider and have also been reworked. It looks like a lot of work but can be and has been done. I think it's the only way to remove the lettering without causing finishing problems later on.

One method which requires a LOT of elbow grease is to use valve grinding compound and a sheet of heavy glass. I've done that with motorcycle engine parts and it should work for this also. Or, take it to a machine shop which is probably the best idea. (It's an idea anyway)

zzcutter · Dec 16, 2014

I have good success with quality draw file and don't forget the chalk to aid in the cutting and non clogging of the file. Then I stone and polish and ready for engraving. ZZ

griff silver · Dec 16, 2014

where can i buy a "draw file ..... im not familiar with this but sounds interesting.

Ed Westerly · Dec 16, 2014

If you are going to go with full coverage and relieved backgrounds, you can also beat the lettering into submission with a rounded tip round blank, and then just engrave the slightly concave result. Done well, no one will see how you did it.

dlilazteca · Dec 17, 2014

Here you go the gist of it.

Watch "Gunsmithing - How to Draw File an Octagon Rifle Bâ€¦" on YouTube
Gunsmithing - How to Draw File an Octagon Rifle Bâ€¦: http://youtu.be/Dec78RQsokw

Saludos,
Carlos

zzcutter · Dec 17, 2014

I get most of my files from Brownells. They will have what you need.

JJ Roberts · Dec 17, 2014

griff,Any True Value hardware will have a good supply of flies that were I get mine right here in town. J.J.

DakotaDocMartin · Dec 17, 2014

JJ Roberts said:
griff,Any True Value hardware will have a good supply of flies that were I get mine right here in town. J.J.

You can just ask for a single cut flat mill file. I have draw filed quite a few muzzle loader barrels with the 12 inch (or so) Stanley mill files. But, it's pretty easy to get a slant going or some other deformity from not being square with the world. That's why a machinist with a surface grinder might be the cheapest method in the long run. I've used a 4 inch bench top belt sander for such projects but there again... there's a learning curve. You'll have to decide for yourself.

Brian Marshall · Dec 17, 2014

< "griff,Any True Value hardware will have a good supply of flies that were I get mine right here in town. J.J.">

JJ, you can get all the free flies you want offa my compost heap for another coupla weeks...

After that it'll be too cold for 'em.

B.

silverchip · Dec 17, 2014

Brian, you bad!!!!!!!!!!!!

Brian Marshall · Dec 17, 2014

What'dya mean Dave? Haven't you ever tried using soldier fly grubs?

I've got a half dozen guys who come over here to get 'em.

They say it's the best bait they've ever used!

Brian

MICHAEL · Dec 17, 2014

Griff Silver, you can wrap automotive wet/dry paper around an India stone. Start with 80 grit. the grit you'll stop with will depend on the finish your planning for the firearm. Use the 80 grit until the logo is almost barely seen, then start with you're next grit, in another direction. You'll go in a different direction for each grit until the previous sanding marks are removed. This is slower than using files, but safer, as in, you make mistakes slower, than say with a file or buffers. If you polish after each grit, it will show if you missed any sanding marks before you go to the next grit. This really matters if the firearm will be nickeled, but not so much if stopping at 220-320 for case coloring, 400-500 Belgian blue, but 2000+ for nickel matters.(On a blued gun the grit marks all going the same direction will camouflage the previous marks missed) If you don't have access to 555 white on loose muslin wheel, you can polish with 2000 grit paper. Much slower but will help identify those marks before proceeding to the next grit. Metal prep is another skill / art form all to itself. I've put in many hours over the last 5 years learning it along with engraving. A word to the wise. It would be a great idea to spend the time prepping a flat 2x2 practice plate to your desired finish before starting on the Colt slide.(Flats are much harder than round objects to polish) I spent a whole day prepping a plate to a mirror finish before starting on my first firearm / it was time well spent. I hope this info helps you. It has worked for me, as I know the other suggestions have worked for others. If you have any questions, I would be glad to help you, as others have helped me. Good luck!

Beathard · Dec 17, 2014

I have several guns that we have laser welded. We harvest the steel from under the grip. So far they all seem to blue well using original metal.

Marrinan · Dec 18, 2014

Unfortunately the slide and the frame may not be the same metal-often isn't. A lot of weapons these days are looking for materials to reduce weight in the frame. Fred

DakotaDocMartin · Dec 18, 2014

The one on the left is what you want for "draw filing". The one on the right is a real b-a-s-t-a-r-d!

tdelewis · Dec 18, 2014

Isn't illegal to remove the manufacturer's name?

Question: removing mfg brand marks on a slide.

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