18k gold signet ring in deep sculpted relief.
Heavy gold signet ring
- Thread starter Sam
- Start date
18k gold signet ring in deep sculpted relief.
That is really beautiful Sam. An astonishing level of detailing for such a small area. When you are doing symmetrical designs like on the shoulders of that signet, what do you find is the best method for copying the half done engraving over to the mirrored side. I have great trouble with the curvature of shoulders regarding distortion. The method I use is to draw half of the design directly on to the ring, cut that half of the design, then using the thinnest acetate I can find I will do a mirrored wax transfer. I find it very hit and miss and am wondering if there is an easier way. Due to the curvature I find the acetate will fit down beautifully on part of the shoulder, but towards the head the acetate will not go down without buckling and therefore causing transfer problems. I hope you can help with that problem because it has been causing me alot of stress of late.
Also I know you like using the wider geometry gravers. I find even a 90 degree will remove way too thick a line and have started using a knife edge onglette. Do you still use those monster width gravers for this sort of work?
I hope all is well over there and that you and yours are looking forward to a lovely christmas time together.
Kind regards. Phil xxx
Also I know you like using the wider geometry gravers. I find even a 90 degree will remove way too thick a line and have started using a knife edge onglette. Do you still use those monster width gravers for this sort of work?
I hope all is well over there and that you and yours are looking forward to a lovely christmas time together.
Kind regards. Phil xxx
dlilazteca
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Love it, thumbs up
Saludos,
Carlos
Saludos,
Carlos
Marrinan
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Even with all that traveling you do with GRS you still have the magic. Superb in every way. The tool marks really show the method even to the uninitiated layman as to how the work was accomplished. A great admirer of your skill attitude and dedication to grow the art form your friend Fred.
Thanks Phil. I pretty much do what you do and have no super easy solution for curved surfaces like this ring. One thing you can try is to use thin strips of tape and transfer narrow areas of the design as the thinner tape is a bit more cooperative on compound surfaces than a wide piece is. So I'll do several thin transfers instead of trying to get it in one shot. It still requires some drawing and fixing before I start engraving though. And yes, I layout and engrave half, then mirror as you do.
I don't use 120s on curved surfaces of rings. I used a 105 which is much safer. On flatter surfaces like the grip cap I just posted the 120 rocks like no other for getting beautiful character and movement to the cuts.
Here's a progress shot of the signet ring.
Thank you, Fred. I see the beautiful sculpted work that's smoothed to perfection and I love it. For what I do, I like the character of the punch marks so I leave them. Kornbrath's work shows all the punch marks as does Churchill's and others and I tend to be in that camp.
Not doing near as much traveling as I used to! I do a few stateside shows nowadays and that's about it.
mvangle
Elite Cafe Member
Beautifully done ring Sam!
the entire ring is beautiful. i especially like the way you framed the letter. it nicely fills in an area that otherwise would detract from the overall effect you achieved in this piece. thanks for showing this. i have tried your partial transfer technique. for something the size of your ring, i have found making a 3 way gore works well. there is a problem though, i'mm too fumble fingered to make it work each time i apply the design. maybe in the next life ?
Marrinan
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Monk, Try the old rubber stamp method. Take a casting with silicone, use it like a rubber stamp on a practice plate. cut the outline then using one of the standard methods of reversing it and cut it again. now make a rubber stamp of this one and stamp it in the other corner. if it is miss aligned you can wipe it off and try again until you get it properly placed. spray with fixative of your choice and go to work. Fred
griff silver
Elite Cafe Member
you work is always inspiring! i just drool and think............maybe some day
Dani Girl
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Loving the scrollwork design on that ring Sam, gorgeous
KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Thanks for the progress picture Sam - love how it shows the before and after of the sculpting.
marrrinan: that's a good idea i've never done this, but would likely work. i have fiddled with plasticine, and like stuff, with less than stellar results. hot melt glue makes a good first cast, but the reverse must be done with other than the hot meltl, dense black. the first cast with the glue can be used to make a mirror image. sams' video shows how he does this. for the reverse, i use a little alcohol lamp with some keri in it. makes a beautiful dense black pull for transfer.
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ndallyn
Member
Just curious Monk, are you using the soot from the lantern as the transfer medium? Just wondering if it's similar to the method I've used to check chamber clearances and headspacing by applying soot to a rifle cartridge (soot transfers to areas of contact).
Ed Westerly
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Cool ring, Sam. But then I love all your cuttings!
ndalyn: i use the soot to make a smoke print. it's a very dense black. a very, very fine powder if you will. i like it as the technique, at least for me, works better than using ordinary pigments. when you make the first pull it is then applied to transfer tape. some of the black adheres will stick to the transfer tape. then that tape is burnished over the object that has been coated with wax or whatever. the soot seems to survive the process better than most pigments i've tried. the result is a more visible design to engrave. sam made a video of transfer techniques. he shows this quite clearly. this technique is for mirroring the original cutting, not duplicating it.
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