Question: What's your favorite metal to engrave?

Dani Girl

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What metal, or anything else for that matter, do you most like to work in?

Grade of steel you like? Brass,copper, bronze, ti... anything.

(also what geometry would you use for softer things, pearl, bone etc to engrave scrollwork?)
 

Sam

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Mild steel is really nice to cut. The practice plates from GRS cut really well, but I don't like the coarse finish on them. The steel from Cronite Co. is buttery and has a perfect finish. It's also more expensive. Some brass engraves nicely as well. Copper can be gummy but cuts smoothly. If I had to choose one I'd say mild steel is my fav.

I do pretty much everything with the same geometry. I rarely engrave pearl or bone, but if I did, I'd use the same gravers (mostly out of ignorance).
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Definitely for me that is Titanium,grade 5.
Ti grade 1 and 2 cut fine as well but the grade 5 is a more compressed Ti able to cut bright.
Silver and gold are way to soft to hold a fine engraving on jewelry.
So for me the best combination, jewelry, engraving and titanium.

arnaud
 

Ste82

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In my opinion the 400 series and mostly the 440, the 416 is the one i engrave the most, but i don't really like it i can't have the same clean cuts as with 440...
 

Riflesmith

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It usually makes no difference to me what I cut in, it's about the art. However, the softer metals can be a real pain, so, to answer your question, I prefer the harder metals and the harder the better. Once you get used to cutting in them they're a breeze. Like Sam I use the same geometry on all my gravers. When it comes to ivory, wood, pearl, etc. I make gouges, vee tools, chisels, etc. out of used burrs always using a 15 degree heel.
 

don hicks

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It usually makes no difference to me what I cut in, it's about the art. However, the softer metals can be a real pain, so, to answer your question, I prefer the harder metals and the harder the better. Once you get used to cutting in them they're a breeze. Like Sam I use the same geometry on all my gravers. When it comes to ivory, wood, pearl, etc. I make gouges, vee tools, chisels, etc. out of used burrs always using a 15 degree heel.

I'm assuming Sam's preferred geometry is a 120 degree( I may be wrong), just wondering which one you use. Thanks
Cheers
Don
 

monk

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silver, copper, mild steel, and brass. i hate working with pewter-- it's like tryin to cut fresh boogers !
notwithstanding the fact that i have all the latest sharpening toys, i've been devoting entirely too much time fussing about geometry ! i've channeled my theory to just getting sharp, a good polish, and as little heel as possible. if the thing cuts well, don't change it, unless really needed.:confused:
 
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Riflesmith

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Depends on the effect I want. I use a 90, 105 and a 120. I personally like to limit myself to any one particular graver. On geometry I assumed Dani Girl was referring to the face/heel angles.
 

Marrinan

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I like mild steel or 416 stainless. I cut a lot of brittle brass which I hate but that is what most harness is or 416 stainless. some in the 300 series but it is usually hard. Enjoy silver and copper as well. Fred
 

Jan Hendrik

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Mild steel cuts like butter and is a pleasure to work with, but is quite unsuitable for knives that I like to engrave. So I mostly get to cut 303, 316 and 416 stainless steel and the odd piece of titanium.
 

Dani Girl

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Gouges?

it usually makes no difference to me what i cut in, it's about the art. However, the softer metals can be a real pain, so, to answer your question, i prefer the harder metals and the harder the better. Once you get used to cutting in them they're a breeze. Like sam i use the same geometry on all my gravers. When it comes to ivory, wood, pearl, etc. I make gouges, vee tools, chisels, etc. Out of used burrs always using a 15 degree heel.



by gouges, vee tools, chisels... Do you mean you use tools that would look more like wood carving tools?
 

Dani Girl

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silver, copper, mild steel, and brass. I hate working with pewter-- it's like tryin to cut fresh boogers !
Notwithstanding the fact that i have all the latest sharpening toys, i've been devoting entirely too much time fussing about geometry ! I've channeled my theory to just getting sharp, a good polish, and as little heel as possible. If the thing cuts well, don't change it, unless really needed.:confused:

pewter, i can only imagine... Never tried cutting it with a graver, but it's a dream to work with in a micro motor and inverted carbide cones.... Really nice, better than gold.

What's the benefit of the smallest heel possible? Do you only polish the belly?
 

Dani Girl

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I find Ti very challenging, mostly due to the number of times i chip the tip and have to resharpen... but I do really like the results and the level of detail I can get in that hard a metal.
Engravers brass is good... A knife i did a while back the brass was horrid to cut. Flakey yuckey stuff... why?... bad ingredients or too work hardened?
Aluminium is fun for practice plates... but I can't go past mild steel for a good quality practice plate.
440C stainless been cutting a lot of... it takes practice, but the advantage of being able to vacuum forge harden it without negative side affects makes it worth it. The stainless just takes on a golden hue.
416 is nice...
I cut a bit of deer antler the other day which behaved really well
 

Riflesmith

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Dani Girl,
Yes, that is exactly what I mean. I also use 90, 105, and 120 gravers along with micro tools I make. Make you carving tools by cutting of the burr, grind off the shank to the width you need and cut your groove with a 90 degree C-Max graver. For a gouge make multiple cuts. Grind a 45 - 60 degree face on it and a 15 degree micro heel highly polished. This works for me.
 

Beathard

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Metal? I like cutting Colt and S&W metal. Lol. Does matter which one as long as its roll stamped with the brands.
 

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