Help, please: Back Ground stipple uniformity and subtle paint recommendations

dlilazteca

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Hello Everyone I need your expertise.

I am working on this background, at certain angles when it catches the light it looks great, but at other angles of light you can see where the tip, either was dulling or I could have hit it more than I should, well anyways here is my question.

What paint could I add that will only be a subtle change in color I dont want it to be black, but only a change of hue to help hide those changes in the background.

Any help greatly appreciated will add photos through my phone in a bit thanks.





As you can see the 1st picture looks uniform and u can see some subtle changes in the second picture taken from a different angle
 

Jared Eason

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Hey Carlos. From what understand about stippling you Need to always keep the same direction. And make sure your point is always sharp. I was Told if what happened with you does happen , one needs to go back over it to get all uniform. Its said paint won't always cover it, and you don't want your paint to be to thick.
 
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Southern Custom

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This is a normal part of stippling. The only way to keep it uniform aside from maintaining the same direction and attitude is to keep the point sharp. As you progress, the tip dulls. Small changes in texture are usually not an issue if it is being painted.
If you are not going to blacken it, I'd suggest not using a "stippled" background. You can make any number of punches that will transfer a background texture that is easier to keep even. Punchdot is one that would come to mind first. You could also use a round tip to make concave dots. I've seen and done some nice crosshatch backgrounds that look like burlap or fabric. Use your imagination and learn how to anneal steel, shape punches and then harden them. Possibilities are endless.
Layne
 

Brian Marshall

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As always, there IS a way to fudge a bit.

Use a matting tool/punch like Layne suggests - over the top of the stippling to make it all look uniform. You can actually stipple the face of your punch...


Carlos will love this because he gets to buy more tools to make matting tools with!


I think I wrote an article some years back in the FEGA magazine about this?


You can make them out of carbon steel drill rod using checkering files or you can make them by hammering the face into into emery paper and then hardening and tempering.



Taper and shape the faces (before hardening) to fit up into crevices and such. You'll need several shapes.


Brian
 
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Southern Custom

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One of my favorite materials to make these punches from is old watchmakers punches or staking tools. You can sometimes find lots of them on ebay that have been separated from their set and pick them up cheap. Use them as is for smaller ones and anneal and shape the larger ones. Here is a set I found in the box for $75 bucks. Cheap! Used to have to pay a fair bit for these sets. Some of the tips have a hole but a quite a few of them will be solid and can be quickly shaped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Wat...313?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9447f2a9
And another here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ANT...414?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item462330b92e
 
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silverchip

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You can use a piece of drill rod for stippling punch- grind it down to a fine point, harden it- snap it off and regrind it to a shape that is small enough to fit in the background areas. this is a good way to even out the texture.
 

dlilazteca

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Thank you all very much I found this.

Finishing deep relief carving?
http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?t=12148
Finishing deep relief carving?

and i found this

Background matting punch tutorial
http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?t=4914
Background matting punch tutorial

Thank you also for pointing me in the right direction can't wait for my wife to get here to take care of a girls, so i can go buy some tools, I LOVE YOU GUYS, manly love if course

Saludos,

Carlos
 
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Christian DeCamillis

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Carlos,

Make a stippling tool from carbide, taper it down to a small point, then add 4 facets at 35 degrees each so it's lkie a pyramid. Make sure it comes to a perfect point. It can be tricky but it will be worth the time.

This tool will give you a very dark background. You may not need any paint. Just a little oil will suffice. You can add some oil while stippling it will allow you to see the result better and detect where you need tom stipple more and less. Keep the tool moving .

Let me know if this works for you.

Chris
 

DKanger

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Will this work for making the punches?
I doubt it. Cold rolled it mild steel with very little carbon in it. I don't think you can harden it.
I use a RotoZip tool quite a bit and am forever breaking the bits. They come in carbide or HSS and are already hardened. I use the broken stubs for this. You can buy the bits at Lowe's, Home Depot, or most hardware stores.

As mentioned, you can also use drill rod but you have to harden and temper it before use. It's fairly cheap and comes in 3' sections from Enco or MSC. It comes in any size that you can get a drill bit in.
 

atexascowboy2011

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Go down to a lawnmower repair shop and ask for a small diameter spring from a junker tractor seat.
WHOOPS! Sorry, I forgot . You're located in Laredo. A place with no grass. :rolleyes:
I know, its a poor choice of words ! :no: :no:

All kidding aside, you can make very durable punches from those springs.
My horseshoe punches, for punching the nail holes, were made from truck coil springs.
Some of them are 30 + years old and still going strong.
 

Brian Marshall

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Here's the best oil hardening rod you can get:

http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Starrett-...d=1406251770&sr=1-8&keywords=1/4+01+drill+rod


And here's water hardening drill rod: (no smoke or flames, works just fine too)

http://www.amazon.com/Polished-Fini...&qid=1406251892&sr=1-7&keywords=1/4+drill+rod


Brian


I'm leaving now. I don't want to be responsible for what happens when you find out what fine checkering files for metal cost....

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ols/files/metal-checkering-files-prod488.aspx
 
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Sandy

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If you go to the local hardware store and pick up a 1/16" cobalt drill bit. Cut the shank off. Throw away the fluted part. Chuck the shank in a drill and turn it on and hold it at a shallow angle on your power hone, (power hone running). Use a course wheel. It will take a short time to turn this down to a point. Put the shank in QC holder and you have made a very durable stippling tool. Be sure to by the drill bit that is all cobalt. Most of these bits run from $1.50 to 2.50 depending on manufacturer. Hope this helps. Oh yes one other thing I buy blank QC holders and then bore them out to the size I need. :tiphat:
Sandy
 
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