BrianPowley
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I've said it many times, "If everyone agreed with me, I'd never learn anything."
Graver organization
- Thread starter wowilson
- Start date
atexascowboy2011
Elite Cafe Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2012
- Messages
- 997
MrThe nailed it
For most of us engraving is a form of relaxation and should be enjoyed.
It beats doing crossword puzzles or watching tv.
Or, as Carlos points out, some of us still prefer to start ouf fire with rocks, while others prefer an engraved, silver wrapped and engraved BIC.
Both produce the same end result.
For most of us engraving is a form of relaxation and should be enjoyed.
It beats doing crossword puzzles or watching tv.
Or, as Carlos points out, some of us still prefer to start ouf fire with rocks, while others prefer an engraved, silver wrapped and engraved BIC.
Both produce the same end result.
dlilazteca
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I use mostly 105 and 96 about 97 percent of the time...I'm like lane if I need something the other 3 percent I just make it and adjust as needed.
dlilazteca
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
all the way,Personally i do a lot of sculpting amd micro details will be impossible for me use just 2 or 3 gravers points , i need 6/7 types of flats for example,all is relative in wich type of work you produce, maybe for Bulino you just need one like i have see in some Italian's Bottega or a stone setter need different sizes of onglette, the world of engraving is relative Big....
Gemsetterchris
Elite Cafe Member
I don't count different sizes as a different graver as such , a flat is still a flat in my book, It's the different shapes..unless the geometry changes a cut drastically It's barely a crucial tool.
Ok just because we want talking about organization of the gravers, what i want to say is for example, i have 7 different sizes of standard flats that can go from around 0,2 mm to 1,5 mm other 4/5 of rounded corners flats, 2/3 microgravers flats,2/3 rounded heel flats, and this are just flats, is impossible differenciate them with a just a quick look, thing that is very easy to do with a colour code, and like you can see exist a variety of flats geometryes is not only a question of shape.
Gemsetterchris
Elite Cafe Member
I can see why some need codes 
Luckily I'm not in that group.
Interesting how we a have different ideas.
Luckily I'm not in that group.
Interesting how we a have different ideas.
Like i have say before,maybe i'm a "green dog" a "mad man" or how you want call it
But "Engraving" is not only my Job or part of my Job, but my hobby too and i like experiment when i have the time,with tools and geometry.
I'm sure that people don't need 40 types of gravers to do beautiful works,but is fun.
And yes i need colors codes to don't waste 5 minutes every time that i need the graver that i want use like you can see
But "Engraving" is not only my Job or part of my Job, but my hobby too and i like experiment when i have the time,with tools and geometry.
I'm sure that people don't need 40 types of gravers to do beautiful works,but is fun.
And yes i need colors codes to don't waste 5 minutes every time that i need the graver that i want use like you can see
mrthe: if you have the time, sir-- please post a foto of your "rounded corner flat" graver. also a brief explanation of what you do with this graver.
Monk this are the photos :
The Front
The Back
and the radius heel variation :
I use this type of flats to remove background and metal in general on coins,but works perfect in general sculpting work, this give you some advantages like, when you use them like they haven't straight corner give less cut resistance on the metal and are more fast and easy to use and produce less marks if you need to smooth after the background or to create curved surfaces with less cuts.
The Front
The Back
and the radius heel variation :
I use this type of flats to remove background and metal in general on coins,but works perfect in general sculpting work, this give you some advantages like, when you use them like they haven't straight corner give less cut resistance on the metal and are more fast and easy to use and produce less marks if you need to smooth after the background or to create curved surfaces with less cuts.
Donny
Elite Cafe Member
MrThe,
Which fixture do you use to achieve this geometry?
Donny
Which fixture do you use to achieve this geometry?
Donny
Donny, Lindsay tools sell a template set for his sharpening system called : Paolo "mrthe" Curcio template that is my name and was developed for me, is a set that allow you sharp a lot of type of different gravers (12/13) with only 3 templates .
Is thinked for hobo nickels carving and sculpting.
Is thinked for hobo nickels carving and sculpting.
My are separated by 120s, 105s, flats, rounds, punches, special purpose, etc.
KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I'll admit I have a cheat sheet with all of the codes right at my bench. But mostly it's just a matter of remembering the Resistor Color Code so you know what the numbers are.
Like everyone else I tend to use a particular set of gravers for a particular job, although the set may vary based on what I'm doing. My Lindsay gravers I keep in roll cases I make and I label the slots with the type of graver and the code. That way it's easy to remember my MrThe punch is 054 and the MrThe flat is 053. That's Black Green Yellow and Black Green Orange. With regular angles I just read the number - Brown Brown Blue is a 116. White Blue is a 96.
Like everyone else I tend to use a particular set of gravers for a particular job, although the set may vary based on what I'm doing. My Lindsay gravers I keep in roll cases I make and I label the slots with the type of graver and the code. That way it's easy to remember my MrThe punch is 054 and the MrThe flat is 053. That's Black Green Yellow and Black Green Orange. With regular angles I just read the number - Brown Brown Blue is a 116. White Blue is a 96.
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Knowing that makes me glad to know I passed the color grading test - even if it was 30 years ago... (imagine being color blind?)
However, just reading those combinations of yours bends and twists my brain.
Mine are much much simpler. ALL flats one color, ALL "Vs another color, ALL rounds another color, etc, etc, etc...
When I clean the bench once a month or so, I rack them by width, and the 2 angles I use for my "V"s.
Oh, yeah... there is another color for the bulino points. They don't get used often...
I'm basically down to 3 or 4 liners that fit the Lindsay these days. They are all different widths and easy to visually identify.
The student gravers are coded the same - except in lighter shades, so I don't accidentally carry one back to my bench or my shop.
There is much to be said for just using a half dozen or less graver configurations for EVERYTHING - and I am moving in that direction!
Brian
I'm gonna guess you bought the BIG jar of 22,000 beads? Sounds like you may need 'em...
However, just reading those combinations of yours bends and twists my brain.
Mine are much much simpler. ALL flats one color, ALL "Vs another color, ALL rounds another color, etc, etc, etc...
When I clean the bench once a month or so, I rack them by width, and the 2 angles I use for my "V"s.
Oh, yeah... there is another color for the bulino points. They don't get used often...
I'm basically down to 3 or 4 liners that fit the Lindsay these days. They are all different widths and easy to visually identify.
The student gravers are coded the same - except in lighter shades, so I don't accidentally carry one back to my bench or my shop.
There is much to be said for just using a half dozen or less graver configurations for EVERYTHING - and I am moving in that direction!
Brian
I'm gonna guess you bought the BIG jar of 22,000 beads? Sounds like you may need 'em...
Last edited:
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Nope. You are where I wanna be.
Can't 'cause I need liners and rounds for some of my work.
B.
Can't 'cause I need liners and rounds for some of my work.
B.
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