Another Graver Lube Formula

silverchip · Feb 27, 2014

I have been using "GUNK" Heavy duty silicone spray lube on a wad of cotton gun cleaning patches in a small jar.It doesn't stink and seems to work just fine. The WD40 formula sounds interesting though.
We used OW when we started years ago, it didn't take me long to dislike it!!!!!!!!

Brian Marshall · Feb 27, 2014

Lynton told me the same... and he was probably correct. He did a lot of thinking about it.

And I have posted on at least 6 forums all the reasons that a student of mine who develops high tech lubricants gave me - the simplest being that "oil" of wintergreen is not a useful lubricant. Go look 'em up, more than twice on every forum.

His exact words " You might as well use snot for a lubricant"... it'll give you the same result.

B.

golden forge · Feb 27, 2014

Nice to know about the evils of oil of wintergreen, I have always used bur lubes from Otto Frei or Rio Grande, and have never tried oil of wintergreen, and now I think I wont.
Thanks again.

quickcut07 · Feb 28, 2014

Brian I cut a lot of Stainless and my experience and please understand I do not call myself an expert or in your league. But HSS is the tool for stainless work as I have found. Sharpen often with HSS or sharpen every few seconds it seems with carbide way to many slips. Carbide seems to shatter not just clip the tip as with HSS, a small slip is a mess. Like your tip for the lube I will have to try it. Glad to see your money making enterprise is still pouring in the dough I shall send in an order.

Thanks Eric

BrianPowley · Feb 28, 2014

Thanks Eric. The validation about using HSS on Stainless Steels is much appreciated.
Yes...Carbide works but it breaks so quickly. HSS works better for me because it doesn't break as quickly---it just gets dull fast.
410 & 416 grades of SS are very user friendly. 303 & 304 are tougher customers, but workable.
I'd like to hear anyone's experiences with 17-4 SS-----VERY difficult to work.
Everyone develops their own techniques for accomplishing their prospective tasks.
I use HSS and my special recipe of "Graver Gravy" on Stainless Steels. Your results may vary.
I really hope you give it a try.

dlilazteca · Feb 28, 2014

What type of steel would this be

Carlos De La O III

BrianPowley · Feb 28, 2014

It looks like Stainless Steel.

dlilazteca · Feb 28, 2014

Sorry my bad, I know it's stainless, but the harness is what I was asking about, just ordered one

Carlos De La O III

BrianPowley · Feb 28, 2014

Anyone's guess, but since you ordered one, you get to educate us.

jaydf · Feb 28, 2014

BrianPowley said:

PLUS

much better i think :thumbsup:

going back to the topic :shock:

thanks for the great tip. a while ago i did a project on SS slide, it was so hard. i did try oil dipping but i still do more on sharpening than engraving.

so in my future project, will try your shared tip (including the beer!).

hey! incase you will be dropping by here in the philippines, ill cover your fuel tank expenses (thats the beer of course)

cheers and thanks again!

LVVP · Mar 3, 2014

Jay,

If you use second part you do not need first one.

Chujybear · Mar 3, 2014

So winding back to the original post..
I'm curios about the properties in the mixture that would require a blend.
What not one or the other?
Is it viscosity that matters? Or is there some other propert that is helpful?

Brian Marshall · Mar 3, 2014

Trying not to beat a dead horse... WD40 stands for Water Displacement Formula #40.

It was never designed to be a lubricant. It has been exploited as such... after all money is money.

If you have ever sprayed the stuff into delicate bearings and then come back to use that equipment after a year or so - you will find out why.

Brian

silverchip · Mar 3, 2014

Maybe thinning out the tapping fluid with straight kerosene would be a better choice??

BrianPowley · Mar 3, 2014

The reason to use a mix is because the thread cutting fluid is dark and thick---like pure maple syrup. It really inhibits your view.
I used WD-40, because it was the best petroleum distillate I had that thinned it out for my purpose. I won't argue about WD-40's lubricating properties. It is a water displacement formula. It also just happened to work and work pretty good.
All I can say is I made a formula to help me with cutting hard stainless steels. This is working for me. Your results may vary, but don't "overthink" this.
If somebody wants to try kerosene, light machine oil, Klenzoil, banana oil, coconut oil, olive oil, cream of tartar, whatever....have a go at it, but you really just need to thin down the thread cutting oil to help see through it.
...or you could just mix up a tablespoon of thread cutting oil and a tablespoon of WD-40 and try it for yourself.

John B. · Mar 3, 2014

dlilazteca said:
Sorry my bad, I know it's stainless, but the harness is what I was asking about, just ordered one

Carlos De La O III

Carlos,
I have cut a lot of these SS Colt 1911's and most are no problem.
My cutting was done with M-42 cobalt gravers, 50 degree face, 15 degree lift.
When and if I use any lube at all it is Microlon Gun Juice applied by dipping the match warmed graver into the Juice after sharpening.
Give it a try, works on SS, carbon steel and most other metals.
Best.
John B.

dlilazteca · Mar 3, 2014

Thank you John, I'm glad you understood the question because I have no idea what "harness" means....

thanks

Another Graver Lube Formula

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