Question about New Hermes "Engravograph"

monk

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just as in hand engraving, you'll end up with a ton of jigs, plates, etc. you must be very careful to assure the template is in exact alignment as to the way your work is situated. i've done a lot of very small baby rings with a flat measuring 3mm. if attempting to align a template with something this small, problems arise quickly. the regular drag diamond is so large in comparison to the ring surface, it's nearly impossible to do this accurately i solved this problem easily. i chucked the back, flat end of a regular cutter in my lathe and drilled a hole to accept a very narrow dentist drill . this allows for a much more accurate alignment.
 

Robert Morales

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I use mine for layouts too. I can make a large image, attach it to the table, then do a quick scale adjustment to make it fit. I've used the diamond point it came with and I have made a carbide one too.



 

alabamaartist

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Brian, whatever you used to do that, I want it! Let me make sure I understand what it is though. DOes it use a rotary engraver or is just a stylus that drags across the surface? And where can I find one? Im doing google searches right now but Im coming up empty.
David
 

monk

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i always leave the rotary holder on the unit. when i want diamond drag, i simply remove the rotary cutter and replace it with the diamond point. naturally, when dragging, i don't turn the motor on, i just remove the tension/drive belt and have at it. for commercial stuff you want to go over and hand engrave, you cant beat this "layout machine" with a stick !
 

Keith

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For about 25 bucks you can get a diamond tool that screws on where the nose cone goes on the spindle. I cut my masters with a round graver and my airgraver into plexiglass. I rarely use my New Hermes as I have a laser engraver and use it for transfers now.
 

monk

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cloudy" early on i used .o62, 6x12" plates. i soon began just using ordinary engravers' plastic. the stuff is much softer and way easier to cut than the plastic window glazing stuff. if you don't engrave the grooves too deeply (and there's no need to), you can put designs on both sides. i just give a spritz of flat white and have at it. btw-- i find for my panto stylus, cutting the design with a # 53 or54 round graver gives a very compatible groove. once cut. i trace around with a .9 soft lead pencil. this lubes the groove and will show where intersections or bad spots need a touchup.
 

Brian Marshall

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You can get the two colored badge and sign plastic from engravers suppliers, and often very cheaply at trophy engravers shops.

They will have leftovers in a special order color (for example orange over black) that they can never find a use for. (Halloween?)

I've had them sell me 2' x 3' or bigger pieces for 5 bucks. Smaller scrap is often given away...

One shop even let me shear the stuff free - way back before we had a shear that was wide enough.

Try and pick the rejects with lighter face colors and darker 2nd layer.

I know that injet transfers work fine. Never tried laser transfer for this purpose.

Might work too, if the acetone does not affect the plastic?


Brian
 

possumgritz

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The ones that I've seen have a "tensioner spring" (for lack of a better term) in the motor mount that keeps the belt in place. Once you get it in you can tie a string around the wheels to get a good idea of size. I may have a used one laying around. PM me and I'll shoot you an email with the size of the one I have. If it'll work I'll send it to you, and the only payment needed will be you replying back here and make a statement on this thread. If youre a bama fan, state that nick saban has the little man syndrome and he's a horrible human being. If you're war eagle state cam newton received money to go to auburn and Harvey Updike was misunderstood.

Geaux tigahs!
 
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