So it seems the answer to my question is no.
As far as the top and sides being irrelevant. That makes no sense and I would have to disagree as to what was said about them being irrelevant. Firstly why would you go through all the trouble to make a perfect grind on the point and then take no care in forming the top and sides? Second. The tapering of the sides and the top are important as it relates to the way you view where the cutting point is. If the tapers are not even and the top is not ground centered then it makes it very difficult to place the point where it needs to be. Especially when cutting fine lines and lines that are very close together.
Don't take my word for it give it a try make a graver with a perfect point as far as the cutting portion and then grind the top and sides any old way. let the two sides come in at different angles and don't let the top align with the cutting tip. Then start cutting and one will see how important it becomes to have it all even.
I do agree that doing it by hand or with a fixture isn't so important as long as it's even. But if a fixture is suppose to make it faster and more accurate then why wouldn't you design all the grinding into the fixture. As I see it I don't see any time savings with this. You have to take it on and off of the post more times than if you just used the dual angle. In fact I think the dual angle would be faster. I will say that the Lindsay templates would be much faster. Although i am not a big supporter of templates for the beginner since you won't learn anything about sharpening starting with them. Once you understand sharpening and have decided on a geometry that suits you. Then a template that allows you to sharpen or resharpen more quickly makes a lot of sense. It's not that hard to make a template for yourself that can do what you want.
I do agree that a parallel heeled graver is not the same as the patented point of Steve Lindsay.