Box with rose

dimovengraving

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A few days ago I received order- gift box (for rose oil).
The time was many little , occur it:





walnut , upholstered in silk velvet , finish french polish , on the cover:inlaid small rose of boxwood , fine wood carving

This was :tiphat:
 

DKanger

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Another fine work!! Are the box sides dovetailed or mitered? I can't see any seams in your photo.
 

rod

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Evgeni,

A very beautiful boxwood carving of the rose. Top quality, congratulations!

Today, I am making a boxwood flute from a player in Prague. I will finish it with nitric acid and iron. Have you tried this stain on boxwood? It captures the wood grain in a very nice way.

Rod
 
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monk

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i like this very much, evgeni. what a gift you have with wood. always a joy to see what you do.
 

dimovengraving

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Thanks to all !
In reality there was no time for wide carving , but I think that this it was for good :thinking:
Sometimes I lose sense of measure :hammer:

...Do you make the box also? ...
Yes, I did this box

...Are the box sides dovetailed or mitered?...
As I said, the execution time was very small and I had to make the box.
This is the assembly that I can do:



...Today, I am making a boxwood flute from a player in Prague. I will finish it with nitric acid and iron. Have you tried this stain on boxwood? It captures the wood grain in a very nice way...
No, this is very interesting Rod. Do you have some photo? What exactly makes the nitric acid and iron?
 

DKanger

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Originally Posted by rod
...Today, I am making a boxwood flute from a player in Prague. I will finish it with nitric acid and iron. Have you tried this stain on boxwood? It captures the wood grain in a very nice way...
No, this is very interesting Rod. Do you have some photo? What exactly makes the nitric acid and iron?
Evgeni Dimov

Nitric acid + iron = ferric nitrate + water.....if allowed to react until the acid will accept no more iron. If you do not allow a complete reaction, you will have acid remaining which will cause acid burning of the wood instead of dyeing it. In this case it will continue to darken unless you neutralize it with a base. The simpler process is just to buy some ferric nitrate crystals from a chemical supply house and dissolve them in water or alcohol until you have a saturated solution. Once applied to the wood, you set the stain with a heat gun, hot but not enough to char the wood. It can then be sanded back until you get the darkness you desire. This stain is best used on light colored hardwoods and the color will vary according to the minerals that are in the wood. It is a common stain used on maple stocked muzzleloaders. Why fool around with acid when the crystals are trouble free?

It is not suitable for walnut or other high tannin woods. Chromium trioxide is better for that, but it's applied and finished in a different manner.
 
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rod

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Evgeni,

Regarding acid staining of boxwood, below is a picture of a boxwood flute ( in the style from the year 1690) stained with acid and iron. Its natural colour is of course, a light yellow, and the acid turns it to various shades of brown and chestnut. More iron gives a darker look.

To make the acid solution: ... do mixing out doors, avoid fumes

50 cc of water and 50 cc of nitric acid mix acid into the water 50/50 nitric acid/water

add one small nail of iron, allow it to dissolve. Leave for one hour.

Solution is ready to wipe onto boxwood.

after one hour, soak the wood in warm raw linseed oil at 60 C temperature for two days.

finished.
 

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rod

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DK,

Whereas ferric nitrate crystals are used as you describe, and no doubt you will have plenty of experience, it is simply not the case in my 40 years of staining boxwood, as I have written, that the wood continues to darken if you use a solution, or even straight nitric acid. Certainly you will get speckling if iron is not in the solution, and that does not look good. If you leave residual acidity in the wood, say in a flute, fingers will eventually discolor the flute. However a simple soak in raw warm linseed oil will absorb any residual acidity and the finished look remains good over many decades of use. The process is very straightforward to use.

I have seen some very handsome muzzle loaders probably stained as you describe, it does produce good results too, so perhaps Evgeni will choose to go that route.

best wishes!

Rod
 

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