Silver Buffing? What's the best buffer?

cowgirlup

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I've been trying different buffing wheels with various degrees of luck. I keep finding that the silver adopts a dark/blackish film with the impregnated wheels and nothing really happens with the others. What is the best technique that you experts have found?? I just want shiny, clean silver!

Thanks. :)
 

GTJC460

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Silver is one of the hardest metals to polish. You have to polish in multiple directions to eliminate drag marks. Think "x" marks the spot. I use the treated stiched buffs with tripoli, then a flannel loose buff with rouge. If you just polish one direction all you do is drag out the polishing marks and make things worse. You've got to move lots of directions and use some pressure. If it's not getting hot, you aren't doing it right. I wear gloves when I polish silver as it allows you to work longer before the metal gets so hot you can't hold it any longer.
 

DakotaDocMartin

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I've been trying different buffing wheels with various degrees of luck. I keep finding that the silver adopts a dark/blackish film with the impregnated wheels and nothing really happens with the others. What is the best technique that you experts have found?? I just want shiny, clean silver!

Thanks. :)

Which compounds are you using?

Tripoli works for the initial scratch removal. But, there are some cleaner and (I think) better compounds available such as Grey Star or Zam which are water soluble. I use those on a muslin buff that is sewn to keep it stiffer. Or a hard felt wheel... depending on what it is your are polishing. I like the water soluble red rouge on an unsewn muslin buff or white cotton flap brush for the final finish. One thing is for sure... like any other skill, it takes a lot of time to get really good at it. :)
 

K Frei

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Typically if you are getting grey or black residue on you metal you are over charging your wheel. I like to use my loosely stitched muslin wheels, I use in gold work, when you get the wheel good and charged for gold, there will be enough residual rouge (I Like Picaso Blue, Platinum rouge;) to do most pieces without charging the wheel again, but if you do end up needing to re-charge all I'd give it is a "gentle Kiss" hope this helps K Frei
 

mtgraver

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I typically hand polish my work, I tend to like the sharper edge to my engraving with an antique feel so high polish is generally not what I shoot for. Although on some jewelry pieces I'll buff with tripoli and final polish with Fabriluster, not sure of the spelling, when I want the sparkle factor.
Mark
 

James Roettger

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As for compounds, Zam is the best "one step" for general clean up after engraving. To remove heavy scratches use either yellow bobbing or tripoli first. Then red rouge for a final polish luster. Zam will remove some scratches and leave a near rouge luster. To avoid gumming of the compound try a lower speed like 1750rpm to avoid the heat build up of 3600. Also to avoid gumming, especially on large hollow ware items that are hard to wash clean, try a little Pam cooking spray or the toxic WD-40 sprayed onto the surface prior to buffing.
These light oils keep the compound from building up on the surface. Finish up after the oiled step with a cleaner dry buff and you will arrive a a great shine. Use muslin buffs. I dip a piece of old turkish towel into hot ammonia water and gently scrub the compound from the engraving as it will always collect in there. An old tee shirt is handy for final clean up and drying. I put a short piece of poly tubing on the end of the spindle to prevent marring the work while buffing.
 
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ken dixon

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I use a yellow one step compound from Indian jewelers supply on a loose muslin wheel. I only machine polish prior to engraving. After I engrave I hand sand with 2000 grit paper lightly then hand polish with a yellow sunshine cloth.

Ken
 

cowgirlup

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I have a sunshine wheel, that is the wheel that is leaving black residue (especially in my line graver marks). It's really annoying! Not sure I'm sold on the sunshine wheels... trying something else. Thanks all for your input!
 

silverchip

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Hi Sheena, Are you wanting to buff your work after it is engraved? I will use a loose soft muslin wheel and red rouge sometimes.Clean your pieces with lemon ammonia and a soft toothbrush and rinse with hot water or use a ultrasonic with the ammonia.One note about buffing your engraving is to not us any extra compound and go over it lightly so you don't polish it off!!!!
 

cowgirlup

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Yes, I am. I just want to shine it up before it goes out. I have trouble with the black residue collecting in the tiny lines though. Is the ammonia water trick for after you buff it then to remove this black residue?
 

Mario Sarto

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If you really want to take the taskwork to polish Sterling Silver to its highest brightness (*), you have to take these steps:

Before you start polishing, the surface needs to be sanded with very fine paper. All the big and small marks must be removed, then go finer and finer (1,000 or 2,000 sandpaper).

Clean the surface from any dirt by washing with hot water and a soft cleaning agent. Dry it.

Pick up a black Bristle brush (like this) and use a polishing compound (like this). Start polishing by using the brush crosswise. Never stay in one position, always be in motion! To and fro, in and out, always be in motion! Do the whole surface consistent and be in motion! Add polishing compound between if necessary.

Next get a cotton flannel buff (like this) and add some of the polishing compound - but only on the left side - leave the right side of the buff clean from any compound. This is important! Now start on the left side and pull over to the other side - in one motion! The piece must become hot, very hot! We call that literally "work from fat to poor". Do the whole surface again and again while crossing the direction - stay in motion all the time! If you do it right, there will be no black stripes on the surface. Always from "fat to poor" and in motion!

As you can see, it is not the tools only - it needs the right method to do it.

I do things like this for over 25 years - for this i use a polishing lathe motor (something like this). You'll get a mirror-finish.

Hope it helps!

By the way - did i told you to be in motion all the time?

:)
Mario

* one touch with a finger will ruin this brightness
 
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cowgirlup

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Haha! I took German in high school? However, I remember none of it! Thank you though. I will take your word for it and do the best I can. :D
 

DakotaDocMartin

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Another tip: As time goes on and you are doing more polishing, you may wish to buy a good quality ultrasonic cleaner and/or a high pressure steam cleaner. Both of those allow you to clean the piece you are working on without adding more fine scratches such as you get with a brush.
 

Chujybear

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One of the other main culprits for residue (stiff black goop) on polished pieces is improper cleaning between tripoli and rouge. The tripoli is a grease, I think, and needs something to cut it. I use 8000 grit white diamond charge for my initial buff, when I use wheels.... But lately I skip the cotton altogether and just buff with rubber brushes.
 

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