Question: demagnetizer - which do you use?

Mario Sarto

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Today i got my new device to demagnetize tools. It works well and fast, less than a second. But - it wasn't cheap (about 150 Euro) and i wonder, which tools the experienced engravers use? Could it be, i spend too much?
 

Peter E

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After UNsuccessfully trying the Weller soldering gun and tape head demagnetizer techniques, I bought one from ENCO for about $35 that works well.

It is very similar to one that was in the classroom at GRS.
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Mario, I still don't have one, but I'm curious now as you started this tread. :big grin:
I need one, also for the burs.

arnaud
 

fegarex

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I have one similar to the Enco one as well but I bought used. I could never make the soldier gun or cheaper ones work and went this way and have been happy ever since.
Rex
 

Roger Bleile

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I have tried the Sears (non electric). Don't waste your $. It is good at magnetizing but not demagnetizing. I have also tried the solder gun method with only marginal results.

CRB
 

Mario Sarto

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Thank you all for your answers. I visited ENCO and had a look at their catalog - the comparable device to mine cost about 200 Dollars. So i didn't spend too much.
Next time i'm gonna ask before i'll buy something ;)
 

Sam

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I've only done the soldering gun method one time, and that was in Sweden at Magnus Jensen's school. It worked perfectly. Maybe Swedish soldering guns are better!

What didn't work was passing the graver through the wire tip of the gun as I have heard about for years, but passing it over the top of the body of the gun demagnetized it very easily and quickly.
 

Tim Wells

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Price differences are hard to judge because on this side of the pond we are not very aware what things cost over there or things bought here and then shipped/taxed over there. As such the price differential may not be accurate.

I use a demagnetizer made for watch parts that sits on my watchmaking bench. It is instantaneous and in fact when the button is pushed it will bounce a balance assembly off the unit, it's that strong. It says Bulova Watch Co. on it but it was probably made for them by someone else.
 

Mario Sarto

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Tim, of course you are right about the price. I didn't thought about the difference...
Here is a quick video of this tool, i think, it's similar to your device.

[youtube]ybtRunWwXxw[/youtube]
 

delder

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Made this one from an old motor that I picked up at a local thrift store. I think it was from an old drill motor. Works great.
 

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James Roettger

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I bided my time on ebay and finally found a Seiko brand watch maker unit that only demagnetizes for about $12.00 including the shipping. The vendor was from Egypt so I had to switch out the cord to an American style plug. The cord also was damaged by the customs inspector cutting open the box.
On a watch fixing forum I visit I've heard consistent reports of bad results with those units that are made to both magnetize and demagnetize. The fields get crossed and don't completely clear the tool of magnetism. Funny though how quickly the tools become magnetized.
 

rod

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Delder,

I am with you! On the Lindsay Forum, this small motor stator idea was first brought to my attention, and it really works .... you will feel the graver shaking in your hand as it goes through the ac magnet!

At your local hardware store, a small mains power fan may be bought for about $9 new, in my case, a small, desk, cooling fan, 110 volts here in the USA.

Please note this essential safety part !!!!! ...

Take the motor apart, remove the rotor and put it aside. We are only going to use the stator.... the iron laminated rectangular stationary part of the motor which has a small copper coil wrapped round part of it, this is wired to the 110 vot ac mains, but you must connect a push button switch of the kind that is on when pressed and off when you release your finger.

If you wire a standard on/off switch that stays on, and if by chance you forget to switch off after using the demagnetizer, the stator will overheat, and as a minimum will burn out the windings in the stator. It will take a while to heat up, longer than the time needed to demagnetize .... which needs only about five seconds.

Places like Radio Shack will sell the 'momentary push on' switch for a dollar or two.

Another suitable motor to get locally is a $15 bathroom fan replacement motor. These low power motors are sometimes called 'shaded pole' motors. You will not get a shock if your graver touches the iron body of the stator. With the rotor removed and discarded, use the device by holding the graver in your hand and slowly pushing it through the big hole in the stator where the rotor used to be.

I superglue mine to the back side of my power hone, ready for use.

Rod
 
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Tim Wells

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Tim, of course you are right about the price. I didn't thought about the difference...
Here is a quick video of this tool, i think, it's similar to your device.

[youtube]ybtRunWwXxw[/youtube]

Yep, same as mine in function; mine is just a lot older and not as pretty.:tiphat:
 

airamp

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Hi,

I use a plate demag. for end mills (and some gravers) and just a note on these plate demag's.

If you power it up and keep power on as you slowly remove the graver in a circle motion above the plate the graver will be dead and stay that way longer than just pulsing it with a shot or two.

Airamp
 

dave gibson

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ed leedskalnin

I liked the video Mario, I was happy to see Edward Leedskalnin. For those who don't know, he built the Coral Castle in Homestead, Florida. This is a monument about half as big as a city block. It is made from massive blocks of coral weighing in the range of 10 to 20 tons. He built it in the early 1900'S by himself then moved the whole thing a mile or so away, by himself. A truly amazing man, he's gotta be from outer space. Check him out on Google..DG
 

monk

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i used a small coil that was designed to take 110 volts thru it. it's wound with very fine wire. as with rods', you can feel it vibrate. works purrfectly. cost me a thank you at the junkyard. just make sure all exposed wires are covered to prevent shock.
 
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