Rolex sides on ring shank?

diandwill

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Aug 10, 2008
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Eastern, Washington State
I started to cut a rolex style ring shank today, on a Sterling ring, and realized that I don't quite know how. I tried it with a C-Max flat, cutting the crosslines first with an 00 onglette. I cut up to the lines, and across to the lines. I tried it in one pass and in several passes. It seemed to work a little better with a 45 face and small heel ( I normally use a 55-60 face on my flat and a rolled heel from 15-20).

Anybody have input on the RIGHT way to do these? I don't think mine was the right way.:confused::confused::confused:
 

James Roettger

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Apr 21, 2008
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Minneapolis, MN
To copy a rolex band pattern the only way to do it cleanly is to join three finished pieces of metal by soldering. This is the only way possible to end up clean in the recessed corners. You'll have to make three separate waxes (or metal blanks) and carve each one with the pattern so that when joined you achieve your finished look. You can test fit your wax pieces together with a sticky wax.
A basic axiom I learned early on in jewelry making is never try to polish into a recessed concave corner unless you want a mess.
 

Haxxis

Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
6
james is right the only way to get that magic corner right is to carve 3 separate waxes, cast them. this is the important part for the perfect finish on the concave internal edge. after casting before you assemble the pieces is to get the center section and the inside edges of the outside pieces properly mated and perfectly polished. assemble from the back not letting the solder run through to the concave corner don't over polish the inside edges after assembly.
 

diandwill

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Aug 10, 2008
Messages
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Location
Eastern, Washington State
Thanks!!! I guess I am out one sterling ring blank, no biggy. The only problem then would be that you would need to carve 3 waxes, or blanks, for each width and for every other size, then mold them to have masters, but you still have the problem of polishing with molded pieces, so I guess each one must be made fresh.
Thanks again, Will
 

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